Take an offbeat perfumed journey through Oman’s fragrance enclaves, with Amouage’s Renaud Salmon as your insider guide
An icon of Oman, it’s little surprise that much of the inspiration for Amouage’s complex compositions is derived from the sultanate’s immersive surrounds, both natural and man-made. The fragrance house’s creative visionary, Renaud Salmon, has tasked himself with unfurling every corner of Oman, from its baby-blue sulfuric springs and rocky mountaintops, to Muscat’s overflowing plant nurseries and neighborhood bakeries. Appointed Amouage’s chief creative officer in 2019, Salmon comes from a rich background in luxury beauty. Previously known for his work as vice president for Marc Jacobs fragrances, and roles with Alexander McQueen and Dolce & Gabbana fragrances, the Belgian native has lived in Brussels, Geneva, London, Milan, New York, and Paris. In his close to five years with Amouage, Salmon has strengthened the Omani house’s relationships with celebrated noses and introduced a new digital direction for the perfumery. Join Salmon on his guide through his most intriguing – and unexpected – Omani muses.
Plant nurseries, Seeb
“Every time I am about to land in Muscat, I notice those numerous squares of green nets between the white houses of the city. Under those solar protections, the lush vegetal environments of plant nurseries reveal a potent smell: a blend of warm plants, exotic flowers, and humid soil. In perfumery, we call this the scent of ‘the water of the florist.’ It does not exist anywhere else in Oman except maybe during the Khareef season, when the monsoon turns the Dhofar region into a palette of green and foggy gray nuances. There is something nostalgic to me about this smell; it reminds me of my childhood in Belgium.”
La Cabra Bakery, Al Qurum
“One of my first olfactive memories of Oman was born in a bakery. I was having a coffee while reading. All of a sudden, a divine warm fragrance filled the room: notes of vanilla, rose water, saffron, honey, cardamom, cinnamon, and other spices.
The bakers had just opened a big metallic oven and were taking out trays filled with honey-glazed pastries that I would quickly become familiar with: basbousa, luqaimat, and more. That Proustian moment inspired my latest creation for Amouage, Love Delight.”
AR Ceramics Studio, Al Qurum
“Ahlam Al-Riyami is a talented Omani ceramic artist who I have worked with for several years now. She reinvents the traditional local craft of pottery with a modern hand and simple, yet striking aesthetics. I see a lot of similarities with Amouage in the way she transforms materials from nature into precious objects that people will cherish for a long time. And I can’t get enough of the smell of the wet clay that she uses; it is similar to the scent of the walls in Oman when it rains after a long dry period. We call this fragrance petrichor.”
Muttrah Corniche Souq, Muscat
“The souq is a beautiful chaos. An overload of sensations and an olfactive kaleidoscope. A place where the whole of Muscat meets, and where imported tourist souvenirs blend with genuinely interesting local goods. The textile producers would catch your attention throwing a silk scarf at you. The frankincense (or luban) traders, with their burners, would catch your nose from far away in those narrow passages. The incense smoke feels to me like a bubble of calmness in the buzzy souq.”
Digidigi Mishkak, Seeb
“Once the sun goes down, the mishkaks are grilled by the side of the roads. None of the shops would reveal the secret recipe for the spicy seasoning of those typical Omani skewers. Vibrant meeting points at night, those little trucks can get quite busy while stories are shared around carts full of burning charcoal.”
Al Hinn Sulfur Spring
“In the middle of the arid mountains is a long accumulation of gray rocks, in what must have been the large bed of an ancient river. This place is dry most of the year, with the exception of some rare days of rain. In its very middle, a thin turquoise vein runs. Some days, the water would be transparent, revealing a thick layer of white sulfuric clay below. On other days, it would be milky and take the color of Chinese celadon porcelain. Locals bathe here and apply the clay on their arms and faces for the softness it provides. I am fascinated by the striking contrast between the rugged mineral environment and gentle flow of this fragrant spring.”
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