Any great makeup look starts with great skin. But that was especially true backstage at Joseph Altuzarra’s fall 2022 show last night, where the directive was to create “a woman coming out of the ocean,” according to skincare guru Tata Harper, whose Hydrating Floral Mask provided a plumped-up, moisture-soaked base for makeup artist Dick Page’s “mermaid-y” makeup.
Never one to take product at face value, Page had busied himself mixing custom cream eyeshadows in the basement of downtown Manhattan’s iconic Woolworth Building, using a blend of MAC’s Pro Longwear Paint Pots in blue, green, and black for two shades he simply labeled “teal” and “indigo”; he decided which color was used on each individual model based on skin tone and facial structure, blending a “melted, inky” disjointed smoky eye around the lash lines. To add to Altuzarra’s “seafarer” memo, Page used MAC’s Lustreglass Sheer-Shine Lipsticks in ruddy shades of crimson and Bordeaux on cheeks instead of blush—and a final spritz of its shimmering Prep and Prime Fix+ spray with gold flecks—for an extra dose of dewy shine.
The nearly-sopping aesthetic translated to hair, too, where James Pecis was using Oribe’s Foundation Mist to give models, including Gigi Hadid and Paloma Elsesser, sea-soaked strands. The texture was still meant to be nuanced, though, the hairstylist insisted—“we don’t want them to look like a drowned rat,” he joked—so Pecis positioned individual strands across Precious Lee’s forehead and underneath her balaclava, while letting Hadid’s lengths cascade in long waves down the back of her gold paillette finale dress. Consider the swooshing sound Hadid’s gown made as she closed the show a modern-day siren song.