Injecting romance back into the art of creating a fragrance, master perfumer Alberto Morillas takes us on a journey with Gucci’s latest scent, Gucci Bloom.
What is the story behind Gucci Bloom?
Alessandro Michele wanted to create a perfume that speaks an intimate language with the lives of different women. Bloom isn’t created for one single woman but for many, and that’s why the fragrance is represented by three very diverse women, their youth linked to the energy of the new generation. The female world is vast, full of women who think differently, who live differently. Women should have a different feminine space, not necessarily connected to the male world. This fragrance is for women who think more about their state-of-mind, interacting as an individual; they aren’t necessarily thinking the same as others.
What inspired both you and Alessandro Michele?
Alessandro Michele wanted a rich white floral fragrance, a courageous scent that transports you to a vast garden filled with many flowers and plants; a bouquet of abundance. The garden is as beautiful as women are; colorful, wild, diverse, where there is everything. Gucci Bloom smells of this garden in order to travel to a place that is not there.
Did you receive a brief?
Alessandro and I met while working together on Guilty Absolute Pour Homme. We connected immediately, we both felt comfortable collaborating to really delve into the creative process of creating his first feminine fragrance carrying the new Gucci vision. I flew to Rome and we began exploring Alessandro’s vision. He wanted to create a scent reminiscent of an imaginary garden; “a perfume with the scent of nature, optimistic and authentic.” When we met for the second time, I proposed several olfactory variations of this theme: a garden dotted with lily of the valley, another with a tropical hothouse, as well as a more mysterious, Roman-style world. Alessandro was delighted when he received and opened the various boxes and he opted for a unique flower that encapsulates the feeling of life, vitality, and growth somewhat akin to his approach to fashion.
Describe the essence of the fragrance in three words.
Authenticity, vitality, and diversity.
What is the key note of the fragrance?
During a trip to India, I discovered a mysterious flower: the Rangoon creeper, a plant used in perfume-making for the first time. The Rangoon creeper embodies the new scent’s concept and name, as it changes color from white, gradually darkening to pink, before finally blooming in red.
This flower is so special that it cannot be extracted, but it displays the marvelous ability to change color when opening up to the sun. It harbors this mystery within it. We decided to include its scent as a key ingredient for the final Bloom fragrance.
An olfactory “capture” enabled me to reconstitute the flower scent in my laboratory, in order to recover the same emotion and magic. Much like the transformative nature of the Rangoon creeper combined with the other key rare ingredients, the new campaign mirrors the vitality and unique authenticity of the scent. You are instantly captivated because the perfume blends harmoniously with the alchemy of your skin.
Please tell us about the other notes.
The fragrance is built around a concept of florals, with an exclusive trio of natural sambac jasmine and the new-to-the-world Rangoon creeper from India. Authenticity is woven through qualitative, highly concentrated natural ingredients.
Notes blossom out like a concentration of flowers, the unique expression of the new to the world ingredients, brings a new olfactory experience. Natural tuberose absolute harvested from India is interlaced with natural jasmine absolute. Jasmine bud extract, obtained through an exclusive method of co-extraction that blends a natural quality of jasmine and captive molecules to impart a fresh green and petal scent on the skin.
How long did it take to create the scent?
Alessandro had a very clear vision of his first feminine fragrance; he is very knowledgeable in perfumery, therefore, the creation process was extremely fluid. Also, I did not propose to him separate ingredients but rather a constructed fragrance based on his inspiration of an urban garden. I wanted to use entirely new ingredients to create Bloom, the jasmin sambac, for instance, is because he wanted this impression of a natural garden, which is a strong and green natural note. It was the first time I ever used closed jasmine sambac bud and especially the Rangoon creeper, we couldn’t extract it, we made an olfactory image of it and it’s the first time it’s been used in a perfume. The whole process lasted about four months.
What is it like working with Alessandro Michele?
Alessandro has a deep knowledge of perfumery. I think he has all the perfumes in the world in his small secret laboratory. He’s a man who, the moment he smells a perfume, understands the emotion it can convey. I had a great connection with Alessandro, he has this strong sensibility, he loves perfume and knows everything about it. It’s unbelievable to work with him, a beautiful experience to translate his vision into a fragrance, he is a modern poet.
You worked with Alessandro Michele on Gucci Guilty Absolut. Was it a different experience working on a female fragrance?
Each fragrance creation is a different journey and this one is particular; it’s the first Gucci fragrance developed wholly under Alessandro’s creative vision. It’s not a matter of gender but emotion. I needed to translate his vision into a fragrance that will provoke a specific emotion when you smell it. It’s something very powerful. He envisioned the scent as a thriving garden full of diverse types of flowers and the rich perfume it emits. Bloom is the fragrance expression of his vision.
What makes a fragrance iconic?
The connection between emotion and scent, the feeling which a fragrance evokes when you smell it, even years later. This is what makes a fragrance iconic.
Gucci Bloom is US $94 or AED/SAR395 for 50ml available here.