Spring has sprung at Vionnet: The Resort collection was presented in a showroom that had been transformed into a garden replete with ivy, lilies, and various other types of flowers. The spring-like mood trickled down to the lineup, infused with delicate colors and references galore to nature in bloom. “I wanted to bring about a new freshness and give our heritage a lighter spin,” said Vionnet’s owner and head designer, Goga Ashkenazi, twirling around with ebullient energy to make her point. The colors she used boasted ineffable names such as thorn apple green, bluebell blue, moonflower pink, angel’s trumpet yellow, catchfly pink, and datura nude. The nature theme was translated into geometric, slightly constructivist shapes softened by the use of liquid plissés and fluid fabrics.
A picture from the Vionnet archives of a sumptuous evening dress embroidered with tulips was the reference for watercolor prints in which the motif was digitally exploded, as in a glove-soft bonded-leather raincoat. It was also used for intarsia appliqués on sleek jackets and tops. The silhouette was elongated, such as a column skirt topped with a short leather cape in pale blue or a narrow aqua macramé midi skirt paired with a sporty-chic sweatshirt in silk mesh. The house signature plissé soleil punctuated the collection. Printed circle skirts were worn with bomber jackets; asymmetric peplum leather “belts” enhancing the waistline ingeniously morphed into tops. Sporty daywear looks and masculine tuxedos in pastel hues were counterbalanced by the glamour of languid evening dresses. Draped in cascading liquid silk jersey, they were clearly aimed straight at the red carpet.