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Véronique Leroy

In her atelier, piled high with bolts of fabric and packed with dressmakers, Véronique Leroy joked that her dominant Pre-Fall silhouette is less a classic A-line than a “tour Eiffel” slope. This elongated shape is not altogether unfamiliar to the designer, but now it happens to be very much on trend. Leroy drew the eye downward using a wide, pleated crepe pant that fluted outward at the bottom. In theory, it offered an interesting proportion, especially when the high waist was visible or the layering remained light. But when styled beneath calf-length layers, the legs appeared like sagging pillars. For the most part, though, Leroy has a good instinct for generous silhouettes and restrained detailing, and she merged both in lapel-less coats and jackets demarcated with black dimensional trim. From afar it registered as a fuzzy grid; up close it resembled a neat row of whiskers. The bordering technique that further outlined various knit pieces has become something of a brand signature, and it also draws attention to the precision of Leroy’s unstructured pieces.

While the collection didn’t offer overwhelming newness, there’s a comforting familiarity to the sort of incremental evolution that one sees with Leroy. The honeycomb knit atop a net base refreshed the robe coats she has been showing for years. Her inspired accord of colors—a single look combined neon carnation, dusty pink, and wet sand—gave reason enough to opt in.

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