Typically, Tokyo-based designer Tsumori Chisato will cite a certain travel destination or make-believe setting as the genesis of her vibrant collections. This time, according to her Paris point person, the clothes materialized without any overarching theme. When Chisato was here for her Spring ready-to-wear show, she visited the Niki de Saint Phalle retrospective at the Grand Palais, and her interpretation of the colorful sculptures—particularly a fantastical tree—made its way into one of the illustrated patterns for this season. The giant sun brooch blazing off various pieces also borrowed from de Saint Phalle’s spiky rays. Still, Chisato’s forte has never been focus, and she clearly didn’t feel obliged to relate every look back to de Saint Phalle. The strongest of her various ideas: trapeze-like jacquard shells integrated with down jackets, which elevated the practicality of ubiquitous Uniqlo layering. A felted wool caftan paired with solid green trousers drew attention on account of simplicity, as did the oversize white openwork tent dress. Much of the collection, though, felt like a late-’60s/early-’70s throwback. It qualified as cute—essentially, Chisato’s comfort zone—if not current.
Tsumori Chisato
