“Kiss the Sky” was the title of Anthony Cuthbertson’s sophomore outing at Sass & Bide, but Resort was far from the “Purple Haze” soundtracked bohemia such a name might evoke. No, so far Cuthbertson’s tenure at the brand has been one particularly attentive to amping up the already-extant S&B glitz factor. He’s fluent in sequins, metallics, and, of course, the tension between the structured and the diaphanous that have long been synonymous with the label.
Here was an outing marked particularly by another signature of Cuthbertson’s predecessors: the marriage of the urban and the tribal—zigzagging, geometric prints, interlocking, armor-like embellishments. A sheer maxi skirt came printed with the former and paired with a leather-piped bustier top; elsewhere were densely printed caftans, a macramé gown, and cutout sheaths. It was flash enough as to feel heavy-handed in places, and plagued by the same profusion of ideas as Cuthberton’s Fall outing. A better edit would have allowed his stronger propositions—like wide-legged trousers with sheer, plissé insets or a series of beautiful Lurex knits—to shine all the more brightly.