A little bit of play does anyone good. Such was the case with Samu-Jussi Koski’s most recent Resort outing, where the Finnish designer kicked up his heels a bit more than usual. Play’s always been there, of course. To wit, Spring’s tinsel and banjo-playing mermaids, to say nothing of Koski’s former post as creative director of the singularly whimsical Marimekko. But here it came to life in more subtly eccentric ways that jived beautifully with the designer’s arty, soigné sensibility. Case in point: the nubby metallic tweed, which Koski whipped into a softly shimmering bomber and shorts, or one of the collection’s standout richly hued velvet palazzo pants and maxi skirt. Fabrications remain the jumping-off point for all Samuji outings, and an array of top-shelf materials lend even Koski’s simplest propositions a wonderful lushness. His always-standout outerwear this season came in pink cashmere wool, while signature shapes of dresses and skirts came in transparent silk, silk velvet, and silk cotton. And if Koski’s powerhouse indie label isn’t yet a household name stateside, his bids to become a complete lifestyle brand could soon change that. November saw the launch of an impeccably curated home-goods range, and for Fall, Opening Ceremony, as of now the exclusive retailer of Samuji’s menswear lineup, will debut the women’s collection.
Samuji
