Peter Dundas will officially start his tenure as Roberto Cavalli’s creative director with a show during Milan fashion week in September, but a flavor of his unmistakable taste can already be felt in the label’s Resort lineup. Dundas knows a thing or two about the brand already, having worked for the Florentine designer from 2002 to 2005. His styling is discreetly on display in the editing of the lookbook, where one of his muses, the über-cool Jamie Bochert, models his signature sexy ’70s look. The label’s creative team designed the collection, which is replete with the customary animal prints, the rich artisanal handwork, and the sensual cutting on which Cavalli has grown his global following.
Nature has always been an inspiration chez Cavalli, and for Resort there was no exception: Birds of paradise were embroidered on denim for a masculine shirt or for flared and cropped denim pants; to make the effect more 3-D, colorful feathers and paillette appliqués were added in abundance. Feminine silk poet blouses in pale pink with ruffled hems added a troubadour, bohemian touch that was also apparent in long, billowy dresses where the exceptional craftsmanship for which Cavalli is known was on full display: Exotic foliage patterns were embroidered on tulle mesh and appliquéd on fluid crepe, a typical ’70s fabric, for a nude top with asymmetrical flounces worn with a long black skirt. Lasered gold leather amped up the rock-chick quotient; a jacket-shirt hybrid was worn with striped cigarette pants, while a shiny pair of trousers with fringed hems was paired with a romantic printed blouse. The same flora-fauna motif graced the surface of a tuxedo in silk twill with black contrasting lapels, putting into play the masculine-feminine conversation.