Follow Vogue Arabia

Rachel Comey

Trust Rachel Comey to rethink Resort. Rethink on a meta level, at any rate: This season, bored by the standard lookbook shoot procedure, she decided to document a dance performance, with dancers from the Robbins Childs company performing in her clothes. Which doesn’t sound that non-traditional, as these things go, until you realize that Comey’s collection was itself inspired by the idea of collaborating with the dance company and the site-specificity of the piece it worked up for her. This was improvisational choreography meant to be done on the street—a heightened version, you might say, of the everyday dance of city life, not only here in New York but also in places like Kingston, Jamaica. Comey said that she’d been poring over shots from Kingston circa the 1970s as a way of extrapolating a loose “street style” theme, and though her homage was indirect, the collection’s Rasta colors, crochet, and vivid intarsias and silk prints nevertheless made the reference atypically explicit. Comey usually plays her cards closer to the vest. To wit, the loose ’70s street-style vibe present in the corduroy outerwear and wide array of denim, shown here studded and in a variety of purposefully effed-up washes. You could also catch a hint of Studio 54 in the designer’s spacey lamé and slinky ribbed jersey and knit pieces. The latter was a collection highlight hiding in plain sight—if the neon sweaters or studded denim flares commanded attention at first, it was the quieter black and navy ribbed items that stayed with you. They had a sexy drape. They seemed very much made to be danced in.

Back to runway
View All
Vogue Collection