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Paul & Joe

The Paul & Joe Pre-Fall collection arose from the gardens of Marrakech, said designer Sophie Mechaly, who rooted her palette in sand and dusty rose while loosely expressing an evocative atmosphere with stylized palm motifs, expanded embroidery applications, and languid silhouettes. To maximize her first delivery of the collection in early summer, she proposed a high proportion of trans-seasonal blouses, jumpsuits, and shirtdresses well suited for layering under tailored blazers and Peter Pan-collar coats once the weather cools. But aside from a few digressions (enlarged animal graphics and looks that skewed too vintage), the offering transitioned smoothly from oasis-inspired to Paris preppy. Here, white collars offered a crisp counterpoint to short black tunics or fuller schoolteacher skirts. A gold-trimmed floral brocade provided the most overt overlap between the two poles and was applied liberally beyond special-occasion pieces to accessories. The most wearable through-line proved a camel grouping; a reversible sheepskin jacket was the undeniable hero piece. Twice Mechaly teased at the upcoming collaboration between Paul & Joe and the Canadian outerwear expert Mackage. The jackets—one parka, one bomber—were shown with bare bronzed legs (and not just a flash of ankle). If this, too, was inspired by Marrakech, it will make for wishful thinking come November.

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