After a Fall collection of mostly tonal neutrals and super-tony vibes, Resort found Michael Kors thinking along much more graphic lines. That much was clear from Look 1, a mink intarsia balmacaan in a repeating hexagon pattern that Kors, tongue firmly planted in cheek, called “your basic winter coat.” There was nothing basic about the new lineup, despite its sleek, clean silhouettes. Vivid shades of coral and geranium were color-blocked on a knife-pleat dress. Large checks met small checks on shirt and skirt combos designed to look like a single piece. And even his new favorite neutral, a reddish brown he’s calling caramel, was bright.
Kors cited Art Deco, but we saw mod proportions in the narrow, slightly elongated blazers and cropped, flared pants. The cut of the tailoring felt of-the-moment without going too far out on a limb for his all-American brand. Lisa Taylor with legs akimbo in that famous Helmut Newton shot—”the image is frozen in my mind,” Kors said—was the muse for a scarf-print shirt unbuttoned down to there and a matching skirt with a hip-high slit. We can think of scads of girls who will be eager to channel that look. Everybody else will be after the black sequined mesh evenings flares. They echoed the “translucent, not transparent” metallic sequined mesh jumpsuit Gigi Hadid killed it in at the CFDA Awards last night.