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Markus Lupfer

The galleons-at-sail, darting birds, hearts, and daggers that peppered some of Markus Lupfer’s Resort ’16 track pants, parkas, and fit-and-flare dresses could have been traced straight off the tattooed arm of some rum-punched seadog asleep at the bar on shore leave. To navigate the nighttime—although it was totally daywear-appropriate, too—starry constellations came sprinkled on separates. Another jacquard starred scallop shells, while a compass, a lobster, and a pug rocking a sailor’s hat at a jaunty angle were sequined onto the front of T-shirts.

Unlike so many salt-flecked collections, though, Lupfer’s steered clear of stereotype. When stripes starred—in fade-edged, wide, horizontal Lurex—he hoisted them far enough from the overfished stock of Breton/naval to pass muster. There were no gold epaulettes—blessedly—although the ribbed sportswear cuffs on his bombers were striped by metallic flash. The closing passage of sailors’ tattoo embellishments on black sheer organza in a bomber, a blouse, and a T-shirt minidress represented the closest thing to a mutiny against this collection’s boyishly luxe-touched message. The shoes (zoom in, it’s worth it) were particularly good—embellished NB-ish sneakers and cut-strapped sandals. Those who voyage in search of pragmatic, expressive, luxurious athleisurewear should chart a course for Lupfer.

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