Follow Vogue Arabia

Calvin Klein Collection

Francisco Costa collaborated on a print with the artist Alice Lancaster for Resort. He discovered her on Instagram, where she goes by the handle @ragingleisure. Coincidence or not, raging leisure is a fitting description for his new collection, which combined the languid shapes of the 1920s—think long fitted knit tanks over midi-length skirts—with a sportif aesthetic that came across mostly via bold horizontal stripes. Padding out in white-soled sneakers, the models conveyed athletic good health, even if here and there the vibe fell a bit short of effortless: Some of the plastic belt buckles that hit at mid-thigh looked clunky.

Costa might’ve skipped the black leather biker jackets that he morphed into dresses, too; that kind of thing has been done elsewhere. That said, the jacket and skirt pieced together from strips of eelskin looked cool—ultra-luxe, obviously, but with a vintage sheen. In the end, the big story here was the midi silhouette. Extrapolating on the idea of the tank-over-skirt set, Costa cut salopette dresses in silk and layered them over boxy knit tees with a translucent, techno sheen. As elegant as a dress worn with trainers could be. Lancaster’s contribution was an abstract motif of breasts. Not safe for Instagram, maybe, but very much in the arty vein that Costa likes.

Back to runway
Suggestions
Articles
View All
Vogue Collection
Topics