If you’re looking for a sugar rush, Blumarine is here to help. The label’s Resort collection had a high saccharine quotient. The hyper-stimulation of the senses was the idea behind a concoction of dresses and separates that were as light as soufflés in every possible shade of candy colors, like macarons piled up in a French pastry shop. To add to the already intense sugary flavor, flowers were scattered with abandon on every possible surface: They blossomed in macramé and in appliqués on tulle bodices; were embroidered on silk skirts; sprouted on lasered suede for asymmetric tulip miniskirts or supersoft dusters. Even denim, a fabric not usually associated with graceful lightness, was given an unexpected floral twist with roses, Anna Molinari’s signature, woven in a jacquard pattern in a belted pajama jacket worn with cropped pants.
Part Alice in Wonderland and part Courtney Love, the Blumarine girl is dreamy but sensuous and a bit mischievous. The sensuous feel came from the use of transparencies and see-through effects, as in a long black tulle evening gown with lace intarsias that added a sense of drama to an otherwise hyper-romantic lineup. Yet the hyper-decorated surfaces were counterbalanced by clean shapes and abbreviated lengths; a T-shirt dress in pale pink organza with 3-D floral appliqués had a much-needed modern feel. It highlighted a subtle, almost twisted aspect that tinged the collection with a hint of playfulness.
