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Barbara Bui

In March, Caroline Vreeland performed at Barbara Bui’s runway show after-party. Presumably, the designer felt that Diana Vreeland’s great-granddaughter meshed well with the brand, because guess who’s now the muse for the Resort collection? The chanteuse/model was hanging around the Marais showroom in Bui’s absence, and glimpsing the clothes off-figure, she singled out a few personal faves, including the patterned boutis (quilted) skort in the opening look and the extra flowy silk chiffon pants (Look 6). Both underscore Bui’s love of legs, whether revealed or concealed. But there were other standouts, too, including a suede Perfecto, beefed up at the back with godet pleats, and another suede topper, this time in powdery blue with scalloped edges. In fact, the jackets all had strong retail potential. You could picture the lot of them—silk tie-printed, denim and Navajo paneled leather, geometric jacquard, a leather-trimmed ivory vest—vying to be bought-now-worn-now come December.

Printed blouses, flared jeans, jumpsuits, and slit skirts rounded out the age-inclusive offering with everyday style, if not surprise. Elsewhere in the showroom, footwear was brand Bui at its best: Every imaginable style—blue suede clogs, python patched sandals, metal-plated booties, all-black sneakers, and laced ballerina flats—had been modified to project rock-chick kick.

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