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Barbara Bui

When Barbara Bui designs a collection, she’s more concerned with the nuances in women’s style than with specific trends. For example, when girls started moving away from skintight jeans, looser pants suddenly felt right. So, for Pre-Fall Bui showed several pairs of black, slightly flared trousers that just skimmed the body. She paired them with snug ribbed knits, which were a refreshing answer to the oversize sweaters we’ve been wearing for the past few years. The collection also addressed the current ’70s craze, but not in terms of silhouette or embellishment; rather, the turtlenecks, long blazers, and wide-brim hats (a collaboration with the Brooklyn-based label Clyde) captured the mood of the moment without feeling too literal. Bui stressed that, for her, it’s more about what women really want to wear right now than anything else. As such, the collection had a flexible palette of black, white, and gray that was punctuated by two of Bui’s favorite colors: burnt orange and “cyclamen pink,” which looked good together on a velvet suit. Opposing textures are always a big takeaway for Bui, and her signature French-girl rock ‘n’ roll vibe came through in the form of weighty, shiny patent zippers and buttery leather leggings. A rich tapestry print lent a distinct vintage flavor, which moved toward overkill on a peasant blouse and hippie flares. But on a simple swing coat and cropped pants, it was Left Bank chic.

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