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Valentino

Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli favor the simple things in life: beauty, happiness, grace, music—and going to their shows is perhaps best compared to taking an abridged tour of the classics. This season, they focused on Russian-French artist Marc Chagall: channeling his sense of color with the usage of burnt red, acid yellow, and indigo blue, and also his personal journey (he was born in Russia and died in France).

Silhouettes inspired by Russian folklore opened the show: linen stitched with naïf motifs, tapestry-inspired dresses, embroidered suede vests, and long coats. But the Italian duo knows better than to overwhelm with embellishments (no matter how well their atelier elevates them) or ethnic references (no matter how much their jet-setting clients enjoy them). The show also featured demure silhouettes, silk chiffon airy numbers, and a series of velvet gowns that shone for their simple elegance.

A theme of love also transpired within the collection via the inclusion of hearts, stars, and clouds embroidered on A-line silhouettes. Amor Vincit Omnia (Love Conquers All) was emblazoned on a linen corset and another number bore lines from Dante’s Inferno. Once again, this collection reminded us why Valentino’s designers are fashion’s most influential ambassadors of the classics.

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