It was Instagram bait at Sophia Webster’s presentation in the graffiti-covered Southbank Vaults, where genius set designer Gary Card reimagined the space as a neon-lit jungle rave.
Webster (who, it should be noted, gave birth, amazingly, two weeks ago) delivered a powerful presentation inspired by Henri Rousseau and the stomach-twisting violence of the Mel Gibson movie Apocalypto, where Mayan kings have a penchant for human sacrifice—a concept that took shape during a trip to Tulum last year. Against the neon background of gigantic fronds, creatures, vines, and foliage, models in bikinis and knee pads writhed around poles, in cages, and on wooden tigers. The shoes were tougher than seasons past, yet Webster’s now-signature tribal motif remained. There were zebra stripes galore, splashes of bright orange neon, and a lot of cutout floral effects. She loved shoestring detailing this season—above-the-knee sandals and flats were festooned with black and white flowers. Raw sexuality came through in the leather bondage crisscross looks, the fetish-y heels, and cage detailing on the upper thigh.
It wasn’t all G-rated, but it was a fun showing from the young designer who enjoys a crossover appeal—she’s still pushing out a collaboration with J.Crew. From safe to subversive is not an easy transition to make, but Webster does it with panache.
Photos: David Brook
