The House of Rochas is celebrating its 90th year. The brand’s founder, Marcel Rochas, is credited with launching skirts with pockets (an evolution in tailoring that women can forever be grateful for) and the three-quarter length coat. He built a house for women who love classically-cut clothes with a glamorous twist.
For Rochas’ Spring 2016 ready-to-wear collection, designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua (of No. 21) cited Gala, the wife and muse of Salvador Dalí, as his inspiration for the show. Consequently, the chapters in his story at times came across as disconnected (in a real, not surreal way, however).
Dell’Acqua opened with high-sheen, quirky flower print suits in oversized shapes, though all eyes were looking downwards at the dainty, pastel-colored kitten heels overlaid with lace. Next, he featured a slew of negligee looks—unlikely to take off in our region, but pretty nonetheless. The surrealist story got something of a kick with a sheer sleeveless shirt dress with full skirt and ruffle waist that overlaid a colorful landscape featured in bubbles across the yoke. Next, a Barbie pink double-breasted PVC waistcoat exited—this Stepford wife style was later echoed in pastel green with PVC pedal pushers. Then, some more transparent looks, this time in black, and embroidered with scenes of giraffes standing tall under a blazing sun.
At last, Dell’Acqua broke out the glamour we all crave from the House with a black and gold full-on sequined embroidered cowboy shirt; dress; and three-quarter length overcoat. After muddling through Dell’Acqua’s subconscious, finally, we found a dream sequence that worked.