Alessandro Dell’Acqua is settling in at Rochas. His runway shows so far have tended to be overly styled. In the showroom, his Pre-Fall collection wasn’t as weighed down with unnecessary extras. It gave you the chance to appreciate the designer’s flair for fabrics—such as a gorgeous hand-painted velvet he used for evening pieces, and, at the other end of the spectrum, a graphic black-and-white stripe loosely inspired by Jean Seberg’s famous marinière shirts. To his credit, the coat that the stripe was used on didn’t code as maritime, an overused trope. Most notable of all was a surreal glove motif, which appeared as a lively print on a short dress and as a smaller, more delicate embroidery on a one-shoulder evening gown. Speaking by phone from Italy, Dell’Acqua said he liked the glamour associated with gloves, adding that they might become a house icon, sort of like the R monogram that appeared on a sequined shirt from Spring. Speaking of extras, when you get right down to it, there was no shortage of accessories here, but they registered as cute, not cloying. The chunky knee socks with big, block-letter R‘s that accompanied jeweled-heel platform sandals, for example, were fairly irresistible.
—Nicole Phelps, Style.com