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Rami Kadi

Style.com/Arabia – DDFC Fashion Prize Class of 2015 finalist Rami Kadi always pushes the envelope during couture week. To wit: his last presentation at the gilded Plaza Athénée featured glow-in-the-dark bugs. This season, Kadi cited “La Primavera by Botticelli” (Spring by Botticelli) as his starting point—and noted he was keen to highlight the transformative power of nature, “Because the world needs positivity.” Indeed, the embroidered diaphanous dresses in Chantilly lace with capes and trains attached all came across as otherworldly and one could imagine nymph-like debutantes floating about in these dresses.

On closer inspection, Kadi’s craftsmanship revealed itself: a multitude of varying embroidery techniques outlined birds, caressed pearls, and bound feathers. The designer also intertwined raffia “I use it often; it’s not easy to work with but I like the raw and natural effect,” and even baked paillettes—and then individually sewed each shriveled sequin to a gown. The highlight was undoubtedly the bridal dress—which took 4 months and 30 petites mains to complete. But one’s eyes were also drawn to a white dress in the far back left hand corner: frayed nacre geometric squares were sewn together to create a showstopper of a gown for a girl on the brink of her transformation to becoming a woman.

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