Wednesday marked the finale of Paris Fashion Week and another fashion-filled month across four cities. Before we bid farewell to the fashion capitals of the world, we look back at what the designers brought to the table during the second half of PFW Fall 2016. Riccardo Tisci turned to the Middle East for inspiration for Givenchy’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection, while Karl Lagerfeld made sure that everyone attending the Chanel runway show had the best seat in the house. Read on to uncover the highlights that took place during PFW Fall 2016.
PFW Fall 2016 Runway Recap: Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Valentino, Givenchy, and More
Maison Rabih Kayrouz
One of the most notable collections presented during Paris Fashion Week was Maison Rabih Kayrouz Fall 2016 ready-to-wear. The lineup started with models outfitted in tops that mimicked the effect of holding up an article of clothing to one’s body for size. This approach was envisioned on mannish shirts and jackets with the models’ necks rising from behind the attention-grabbing execution. Kayrouz also delivered tailored trousers in both slim-fit and loose silhouettes, streamlined outwear, and flowing evening gowns that were designed with elegance and finesse. A neutral palette gave way to saturated colors of grasshopper green, rouge, and indigo in shimmering materials.
Renowned for his engineered draping and figure hugging dresses, Roland Mouret took a graphic approach to his Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. The designer’s signature silhouettes were met with high-necklines and graphic lace on sheer cutout panels and sleeves. Velvet played a leading role, making an appearance in deep burgundy shades amid a color palette of black and violet that featured shocks of electric purple and green. Some looks overwhelmed with a heavy hand on embellishments, however a streamlined, velvet-paneled, black cape had heads turning.
Creative director Riccardo Tisci turned to Ancient Egypt for inspiration for Givenchy’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. Tisci ran with the historical inspiration and presented an offering comprised of Egyptian iconography motifs, psychedelic prints, and geometric patterns across slim-fit dresses, silk blouses, and outerwear. Military tailoring was seen on jackets while snakeskin, leopard, and metallics were woven throughout the collection. Unfortunately, the collection was presented on a chaotic runway set in the form of a labyrinth. The messy staging resulted in a spark of controversy among models Bella Hadid, Ondria Hardin, and Mariacarla Boscono, with Style.com/Arabia putting all the speculations to rest here.
Why fix something if it’s not not broken? For Fall 2016 ready-to-wear, Giambattista Valli stuck to his codes and delivered an ultra-feminine collection that was blooming with florals. The offering featured alluring drop-waist frocks, pleated sheer dresses, various floral embroidery, ruffled high-neckline collars, and flouncy hemlines. Boxy coats and moto jackets added a masculine narrative to the collection. Meanwhile, demure, high-neck, long-sleeved gowns concluded the show with ladylike splendor.
For Chanel’s Fall 2016 presentation, creative director Karl Lagerfeld brought 3000 press, buyers, and VIPs to the front row, with a set inspired by the House’s original couture presentations held at 31 rue Cambon. Classic tweed skirt suits ruled the first third of the collection done up in shades of pink and at times traced with denim, which eased into a monochromatic and grayscale palette. Further highlights included metallic separates and totes loaded with camellia flowers and cat prints, and flouncy, white lace silhouettes. However, stealing the spotlight were the extraordinary multiple row, pearl necklaces. While some boasted Chanel emoji pendants and charms, other necklaces resembled an evil eye motif reminiscent of Nadine Kanso’s “Ya Nour El Ain” ring.
Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino explored on and off-duty ballerina styles for Fall 2016 ready-to-wear. The show opened with a model exiting the runway to a live piano melody and dressed in a military coat that was layered over a ripped-knit sweater, tailored shirt, and an ankle-grazing tutu skirt. The predominantly black collection gave way to wispy embellished gowns in shades of nude for every skin color. The collection played on the influences that stem from the duality of being a woman; the ability to be both strong and soft. Models were seen outfitted in moody styles coupled with biker jackets that were contrasted against romantic light-as-air tulle silhouettes.
Iris van Herpen
The Iris van Herpen Fall 2016 ready-to-wear show delivered a visually stimulating collection inspired by lucid dreams. The Dutch designer explored sculpturally engineered cocktail dresses featuring shiny iridescent materials, bubbly shapes, razor-sharp fanned pleats, and hexagon cutouts executed by way of 3-D printed elements and laser cutting techniques. In an exclusive fashion film featured on Style.com/Arabia and shot by Nick Knight and styled by Amanda Harlech, the concept of the inspiration behind van Herpen’s collection is explored.
Zuhair Murad’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection presentation took place at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris. The only Middle Eastern designer to be featured on the 2016 Oscars red carpet, Murad showcased a collection that drew inspiration from Las Vegas by night. The predominantly black and white, edgy offering featured fringed leather and sheer dresses, lace frocks, and notably, a chic black pajama-inspired suit with white piping. With an emphasis on versatile styles, Murad’s collection stressed on daywear options such as embellished, cropped, denim jeans, graphic print blazers, and tailored jumpsuits.
Miuccia Prada closed Paris Fashion Week with a characteristically quirky, anglophile Miu Miu Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection in all its Victorian and Edwardian glory. Denim separates dominated the first set of the offering in a variety of styles, which was followed closely by tapestry patterns that resembled upholstered materials, featured across maxi skirts, moto jackets, and coats. Utilitarian outerwear came complete with fur-trimmed cuffs that were showcased alongside a handful of jackets with patch detailing. For evening wear, there were dresses that nodded at the fifties—notably the gathered-at-the-waist lilac number.