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Peter Pilotto

For a while Peter Pilotto, headed by designers Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto, was one of the most exciting shows to catch during London Fashion Week. Who can forget when Pilotto met El Greco in the stark cement halls of the Tate Modern? But indeed, sometimes too much of a good thing (in this case, prints) can overwhelm and following an over-the-top Fall 2014 RTW offering, the brand has since been scaling back on its print signature. However, it’s rare that designers can remove what got them on the radar in the first place and still seize people’s attention; and sure enough, the Peter Pilotto post-print era is underwhelming.

The designers’ tailoring put lightweight culotte pants at the forefront: jean, lemon yellow, cream and lace culottes abound. But if above the ankle floaty pants aren’t your thing, then the brand also offered lovely crepe midi tube skirts and dresses in pale pastels with pretty horizontal ruffle details. These accouterments sometimes bloomed upwards to morph into an asymmetrical flounce. And while there were a few geometric patterns, the real story here was the designers’ delicate and varied play on texture. De Vos and Pilotto experimented with overlaying lace, silk, and a stretchy seersucker fabric. It was all very pretty and soft—it just didn’t pack the punch of seasons of yore.

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