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Nineties, Grunge vs. Glam

The nineties enjoyed a revival on the Spring runways, with designers drawing inspiration from two of the decade’s major fashion moments: the dawning era of the super-glam supermodel and the Seattle grunge scene.

On the glam side of the equation were the designers who channeled that iconic Peter Lindbergh shot of Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, et al., vamping around in leather jackets, motorcycle caps, miniskirts, and biker boots. Dean and Dan Caten directly referenced the image with their typically over-the-top lineup for DSquared². And you could see traces of those “We don’t wake up for less than $10,000 a day” times at Balmain, where Olivier Rousteing brought back bold-shouldered power suits and supersize hoop earrings worthy of the Fly Girls. On the grunge side of the divide, Phillip Lim mashed up flannels, lace, and shredded khaki, and models stomped down the runway wearing stringy, Kurt Cobain wigs at Theyskens’ Theory. Grunge officially became a trend in Paris when Dries Van Noten elevated the look with plaids cut from featherweight organzas and mousselines.


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