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One sure sign that what Jeremy Scott is doing at Moschino is registering:’s comments section. Few collections have spawned as many responses (pro and con) as Scott’s most recent Moschino outing. The Pre-Fall collection he showed by appointment in New York today, while significantly dialed back from last September’s bubblegum pink Barbie bonanza, delivered on the irreverence and excess that have gotten people talking about him. See the fitted little black dress with the strategically placed hot iron burns; the gold sequined gown embroidered with the words “I had nothing to wear so I put on this expensive Moschino evening dress”; or a cocktail number with the classic 36-24-36 measurements printed across the bust, waist, and hips.

In place of Mickey D’s and Mattel’s iconic toy, Scott was riffing here on the tools of the atelier. There was an oversize yellow measuring tape motif, prints based on fabric care symbols, another of a dry cleaning receipt, and still more that re-created the pattern paper used by seamstresses. Nothing subtle about any of it, which will suit the Miley Cyruses and Katy Perrys of the world just fine. But lurking on the racks were more understated pieces, like simple cashmere sweaters with pattern markings and sweatshirts quilted with a Moschino logo that will appeal to gals who don’t live their lives on Instagram. With an L.A. store set to open on January 15 and the ink almost dry on a deal for a New York store, questions of commerce have got to be just as front of mind for Scott as stirring up controversy is. The surefire retail winners here: the fox- and mink-collared parkas.

—Nicole Phelps,

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