Marni and its licensing partner, the Aramis and Designer Fragrances division of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., are preparing to launch the Italian fashion house’s first women’s fragrance in February 2013.
Designed to appeal to a Marni consumer craving innovation, Consuelo Castiglioni, Marni’s Creative Director told WWD, “…It’s a perfume that’s quite individual, that doesn’t evoke anything in particular. It’s for a woman who dresses for herself, who doesn’t follow trends but is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric.”
The fragrance was originally a blend of spicy and woody notes, which Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, global brand president of Aramis and Designer Fragrances, BeautyBank and Idea Bank at Estée Lauder, was partial to, but found to be a bit raw. An intense rose oil was added to inject voluptuousness, an effect that was then moderated with incense. “It’s very modern and bold,” Gabai-Pinsky said.
Marni’s strategy fits together with Lauder’s long-term goal to assemble a slew of designer fragrance brands including Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Ermenegildo Zegna, Tory Burch, Tommy Hilfiger, and Coach that “represent a higher-end proposition with an aspirational value.” A market segment that represents only 5 to 7 percent of the global business, but one that has proven to have the strongest growth over the past few years.
The launch will involve only about 2,000 doors around the world in a universe of about 25,000. In America, Saks Fifth Avenue will have a six-month exclusive.
Industry sources estimate a first year sales target of $25 million, a figure that is expected to double and triple within three years.
