Follow Vogue Arabia

Power in Pink: Designers Go Bright in London

london-fashion-week-fall-2015-pink-trend

London fashion week brought the perfect counter to the prevalence of the color black on New York’s Fall 2015 runways: bright pink. Was it a response to Prime Minster David Cameron’s rhetoric on austerity? Or maybe just a much-needed dose of optimism? Whatever the reason, the hue had its moment in the British capital and gave fashion fans something to smile about during the week.

In Mary Katrantzou’s horror vacui-themed collection, bubblegum pink oversize pyramidal studs decorated the hips of skirts and coats, while splashes of a hotter magenta came in brocades and plastic gems. On the whole, Katrantzou’s collection was full of innovative solutions to common fashion problems: how to advance fabrications and still make clothing wearable; how to stay true to a brand’s core ethos while experimenting in new arenas; and how to wear pink, of all hues, while retaining a strong attitude. “By common association, pink is often viewed as saccharine and overly feminine, but this wasn’t always the case,” Katrantzou told Style.com. “When we were researching the collection and exploring 18th-century Victoriana, it was actually a shade used to represent stamina and power; a masculine alternative to red. In the collection, we sought to redefine its connotations by filtering it through a modernist lens.” Heady inspirations aside, you’ll be sure to find Katrantzou’s magenta outerwear and techy dresses on the backs of Britain’s best It girls come fall.

london-fashion-week-fall-2015-pink-trend-02

Looks from Mary Katrantzou Fall 2015, left, and Jonathan Saunders Fall 2015Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com 

On the same day as Katrantzou’s show, Jonathan Saunders added articulate splashes of the color in his collection about “joy and optimism” with ultra-pink stripes running vertically down Jessica Stam’s slitted shift dress, as well as a pair of lean tuxedo pants in the same shade that mixed strong tailoring with a bit of fun. Roksanda featured the color in furs, shearlings, and tweeds, while Erdem Moralioglu opened his show with a series of dresses in dusty pink brocades, some turned inside out. House of Holland and Sibling, both long-standing fans of a neon moment, continued to experiment with pink in shades ranging from magenta to pastel. Two of the most showstopping pink pieces from London appeared at Toga and Christopher Kane; the former showing a velvet coat in true shocking pink, and the latter, a rose-hued male figure coiled around the torso of a cocktail dress, genitalia on full display.

london-fashion-week-fall-2015-pink-trend-03

Looks from Roksanda Fall 2015, left, and Erdem Fall 2015Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages.com 

After seasons of seriousness, minimalism, and retromania, it’s hard to predict if women will immediately buy into the happiness and showiness of pink clothing. Katrantzou is betting on it, explaining, “I think women are a little hesitant when it comes to incorporating pink into their wardrobes because they fear the stereotypes associated with it. This collection is designed to subvert those expectations and make them feel empowered and that the statement they are making is a modern one.” Pretty and powerful in pink? That’s an idea we can support.

london-fashion-week-fall-2015-pink-trend-04

Looks from Toga Fall 2015, left, and Christopher Kane Fall 2015 Photo: Courtesy of Toga; Indigitalimages.com


—Steff Yotka, Style.com

Suggestions
Articles
View All
Vogue Collection
Topics