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Do you know how to spot a style influencer during fashion month in New York, London, Paris or Milan? It’s easy; she’ll be sporting a pair of fluffy mules, or a flower-print dress, or a pussy bow shirt by Gucci. Well, not just by Gucci, but rather by Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, which is very different from the former creative director Frida Giannini’s, who took her final bow (no pun intended) three seasons ago. The consensus surrounding Giannini’s departure was that the brand was growing tired and needed some new blood—and now Michele is the new black. We live in a fickle and polarizing world.

Michele’s Fall 2015 librarian-luxe muse, complete with thick glasses, pussy bows, and berets, left us wondering if the trend would catch on—especially in the Middle East. But with this Spring 2016 offering, Michele will cement himself as a trendsetter who will make the girls from Abu Dhabi to Beirut all want to channel their most fabulous inner nerd. The Kering Group’s official reports (the brand’s owner) noted that Gucci’s revenues are up by 12% since Michele took the lead; and fresh off this boost and his initial critical success, Michele today produced another strikingly strong collection.

Tapestries and clashing prints welcomed guests at the show, emphasizing the eccentricities that the collection would highlight via lace, chiffons, sequins, leather, and brocades.This all came together to form looks that still had an “attic” feel to them, but this time, the romance was amped up to its maximum. Oversized pussy bows in pink chiffon elevated the ‘70s influence to a more modern feel, and faux ruffles on sequins and tulle dresses, as well as cartoon-like illusion frocks, will charm the stylish woman ready to stand out. Brocade and printed silk suits and their pajama counterparts will make for timeless additions to any elegant woman’s wardrobe. As for the accessories, in an age where logos are a thing of the past,the logo canvas and double G on belts and bags were almost ironic. Some knitwear was, however, too inspired by Missoni, and marked the only hindrance to a festive collection that opened Milan Fashion Week with a bang.

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