From the favelas of Brazil to the mean streets of New York, Riccardo Tisci has always had a thing for Americana. For his 10-year anniversary at the helm of the LVMH-owned Givenchy, he moved his Paris show to the city that never sleeps, specifically to celebrate the brand’s new boutique on Madison Avenue.
Adding more momentum to the event, Tisci also chose to show on September 11, and while the collection wasn’t particularly indicative of this date, creative director and Tisci’s close friend, artist Marina Abramović, took it upon herself to build a stage on the river banks facing the Freedom Tower.
The almost entirely monochromatic collection revealed the designer to be in a romantic mood with displays of meters of delicate lace, and shoulders wrapped in white tulle or silk. The mood was private: camisoles and robes were out to play in plain sight and styled with black tailored trousers. For this celebratory fête, the designer chose to mix ready-to-wear, couture, and menswear, which has been one of his things as of late—even showing couture pieces during his men’s collections in Paris. Here, he sent his classic ombré colored statuesque silhouettes with plays on textures and transparency down the runway clad with face jewelry glued on by superstar makeup artist Pat McGrath, which has also been a recurrence at Givenchy—only this time, both were amped up to match the event. A cream colored jacket with gold metal appliqué will certainly please Nicki or Kim or any other member of the #gang as well as Middle Eastern customers avid of modest shapes and bold statements. A light green, fringed dress was bold and delicate, which is one of Tisci’s masterful skills.