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If the cameo and dark flower prints, cascading ruffles, and lace accents are anything to go by, Erdem Moralıoğlu, the Canadian designer with Turkish and English roots, showcased a powerfully feminine Erdem Spring 2016 ready-to-wear collection during London Fashion Week in a mysterious color palette of aubergine, moss green, and grape. The designer opened his flagship store this summer in London.

Founder: Erdem Moralıoğlu

Owner: Erdem Moralıoğlu

Designer: Erdem Moralıoğlu

Year Established: 2005

Spring 2016 Inspiration: Victorian dress.

Star Pieces: The cascading black ruffle dress with red flowers and the silver blue and grape needlepoint lace dress.

The Middle Eastern Sale: Several options here to attend an opening night at Milan’s La Scala Opera House.

Drawbacks: The dresses with the balloon sleeves, lace-embellished yokes, cameo prints, and arm gauntlets looked too dated. In an effort to make them appear contemporary, some of the cuts were very trend conscious (bandeau tops)—but it all came across as trying too hard.

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