ANDAM, the French National Association for the Development of Fashion Arts, is feting its 25th anniversary this year. Last night, Nathalie Dufour marked that milestone in high style at the gilded Hôtel Potocki, in the presence of the new French minister of culture, Fleur Pellerin; Pierre Bergé; and Kering chairman and CEO, François-Henri Pinault, the sponsor who will mentor this year’s winners.
Looking back to the early days, Dufour recalled, “Martin Margiela presented a dossier [in 1989], and thanks to the ANDAM prize he was able to do his first show, so we weren’t mistaken. It makes me really proud, and it’s so gratifying to see so much support from all over.” Ditto for then-unknowns including Christophe Lemaire, fresh from Christian Lacroix’s studio with a handful of sketches (1990); Viktor & Rolf (1994); and Jean Touitou, of A.P.C.
Commented Pinault: “What’s really magical about luxury is that it’s about creation, and creation is about individual personality and influences. Small houses require a lot of time and energy, but when talents like Joseph [Altuzarra] arrive in a group like ours…watching it grow is an inspiration for everyone.”
Spotted in last night’s crowd were this year’s Fashion Award winner, Iris van Herpen, and First Collection winners Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant of Coperni Femme, 2013 winner Alexandre Mattiussi, Yaz Bukey (a two-time ANDAM winner), Gareth Pugh (2008), Anthony Vaccarello (2011), plus out-of-towners Joseph Altuzarra, Charlotte Dellal, Mary Katrantzou, and recent LVMH prize finalist Chris Gelinas.
So what exactly does it take to win a major fashion prize like ANDAM? “Passion, creativity, putting emotion into your work, taking a risk,” offered Estée Lauder group president John Demsey. “For me, Iris carries the glamorous mantle of Parisian fashion, and Coperni have incredible youth and energy that captures what’s going on. They represent sort of the bookends of what’s going on in fashion.”
“We always look at creative talent, but it’s not just about that,” allowed Pierre-Yves Roussel, chairman and chief executive of the LVMH Fashion Group. “It’s about the ability to look deep within for inspiration, to have a 360-degree vision, leadership, tremendous energy, and being able to surround yourself with the right kinds of people. It’s about having a certain depth, but also being able to constantly evolve. What interests me most is the journey.”
Click through the slideshow above to see the photos from ANDAM’s fete, as well as the best pics from last night’s parties in Paris, hosted by Guido Palau,Aquazzura, André Saraiva, Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, and Delvaux.
