It is safe to say that Jean Louis Sabaji has an obsession with flowers. For this collection, moreso than any other, he let his monomania take over. His Femme Fleur (“flower woman,” dear to designers like Christian Dior, who also had a thing for gardens) was sometimes innocent, other times dangerous, beautiful but also strange-looking and sultry—a reflection of nature itself.
A rose opened the show, its silk petals covering the model who bloomed in front of the audience. A bouncy, double-sided blue and pink jumpsuit with oversized collar also offered modular options, as well as the cocoon finale dress that gave life to a dainty flower appliqué number with silk bodice. Sabaji’s signature silk tubes came in discombobulated forms at the shoulder line that then dropped into hoops, and his romantic tulle dresses with flower clusters and play on dramatic volumes were there too. But this time around, the collection felt much tighter than his other shows (editing has been one of the Lebanese designer’s primary missteps).
Highlights included a mille-feuille yellow pant-suit; an embroidered netted sweatshirt and culotte; and a series of bright pink and baby blue numbers. Sabaji’s atelier once again produced a well-made collection that will please the designer’s collectors and attract more with this more focused approach.
Missed the show? Watch all of the shows from Fashion Forward Season 5 here.