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Hâshé

It’s always enjoyable to witness a designer do an about-face from one season to thenext. Whereas last season, Ava Hashemi showcased a tutti-frutti palette on silhouettes that were exaggerated in all the wrong places, here, the Iranian designer featured a largely monochromatic collection with tuxedo looks so sleek you couldn’t help but look twice—and when you did, Hashemi’s details revealed a hint of magic. A few of the tricks she had up her tailored sleeves included jacket lapels that opened to expose shoulder blades; black tuxedo pants with white linings that made the typical grosgrain ribboned trouser appear mundane; and a white shirtdress with built-in caplet featured double collars and cuffs.

There were a few missteps which came towards the end of the show and made for a decrescendo finale: pants with inch-wide flaps running down the leg made the hips appear too ample; the tailoring of a gray dress with sheer cutouts was disproportionate to the general elegance of the rest of the collection; and the oversized coats, which engulfed the wearer in a “blah” brown, were drab.

With tighter editing, these hiccups could be avoided, and with this showing, Hashemi demonstrated that hers is a label worth watching. Though she named this collection “Silence,” it incidentally made enough noise for this editor to sit up and take notice.

Missed the show? Watch all of the shows from Fashion Forward Season 5 here.

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