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The Emperor 1688

Since launching their brand in 2007, Babak, Haman, and Farhan Golkar have been banking on their education at the UK’s best fashion schools (i.e. Central Saint Martins, London College of Fashion, and Chelsea College of Art), and their sharp tailoring skills, inspired by Savile Row mixed with a touch of Persian extravaganza. For years, the brothers, who are evidently in love with the aesthetic of proper upper class attire, focused on menswear, even competing as finalists in the International Woolmark Prize. The trio has also tried its hand at womenswear, introducing some jackets and shorts inspired by a man’s closet during Fashion Forward’s first season, back in 2013. Since then, the demand for womenswear has grown and it has subsequently taken a more dominant place in their collections. “Here, we wanted to focus on who the Emperor 1688 woman is, what her style is, and what her cut is,” explained Babak Golkar. And so, out walked an all-women “army.” “We focused on how tailoring alters the body and gives a sense of confidence,” Babak continued. Indeed, the “Empress” was full of assurance in cloqué sweatshirts and fitted skirts; a silk bias-cut dress and silver fox jacket; and tweed top and flowy black silk skirt. Gold zippers were the running theme, cinching the silhouette at the waist and offsetting structured navy, black, and white pieces. The silhouettes were all styled with felt hats — a hybrid between a cap and a military helmet — and felt embellishments over the calves for a more gladiator feel, which unfortunately didn’t fully match the footwear. Highlights were a beautiful dress with navy bodice, a dropped waist enriched with shredded organza hand-stitched to look like feathers, and a shiny, black silk skirt. Meanwhile, a short-sleeved navy summer coat and an urban series of sweatshirts and black flower appliqué skirts made for a more “downtown” feel.

Missed the show? Watch all of the shows from Fashion Forward Season 5 here.

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