“Is there such a thing as a beauty overdose?” a fellow member of the press mused. A visit to the Biblioteca Casanatense, established in 1701 and encompassing 400,000 volumes, served as a backdrop to a line-up of couture dresses—the first of many reminders that the House of Valentino is driven both by historical references and classical beauty.
Mirabilia Romae, or Marvelous Rome, is an ephemeral exhibition that consists of a multi-point circuit that a few VIPs and press members embarked on over the last two days, discovering architectural and historical gems unveiled by the Italian brand. Among them: a third-century AD Mithraic grotto, or the clandestine room of Cardinale Fernidand de Medici. In each location, couture dresses from previous collections (from Valentino Garavani himself or current designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli) were mounted to cast a light on the environment that inspired their creation. The way the designers manipulate their craft is akin to the methods of the architects and painters of the Italian Renaissance: luxurious materials are selected, codes of proportion determined, and finally, a pure simplicity is revealed (all the while clad in delicate and rich ornaments).
The couture show that followed a day of Roman exploration revealed such a balance: fine laces, bobbinet tulle, and feather-light velvets brought a series of dresses to life. Some were embroidered with the eagle symbol of Rome, others mimicked the arches of the Colosseum with velvet insets. Gladiator sandals and exquisite gold jewelry by sculptor and jewelry maker Alessandro Gaggio completed the Roman look, although somewhat redundant with past collections. Other historical references in the collection included gladiator and toga-inspired dresses, medieval capes, and renaissance gowns. Employing a palette of black, gray, purple, and splashes of gold—notably on armor-like dresses with sheer pleats on the skirts—this collection brought Valentino couture from Paris back home to Rome (albeit for one season), for a celebratory exposé on regal couture.
