The past year has been something of a whirlwind for Taller Marmo designers Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea. The Style.com/Arabia – DDFC Fashion Prize finalists’ signature celebrates historical references via “intellectual occasion wear.” Now, they’re looking to offer the Taller Marmo woman expanded daywear separates.
This Fall 2016 collection, which looked to Cleopatra (one of the Arab world’s most commanding drama queens historically), was peppered with hits and misses. The highlights: the elegant black trench with white trim; the shimmying low V-neck tunic over pants and floor-grazing halter dress; and the one-sleeved navy turtleneck number. Women looking to add a bomber jacket to their wardrobes that doesn’t say “I borrowed this from my teenage daughter” may gravitate towards the silver-hued jacket with serpentine imagery.
Unusually, however, the collection’s lows were equally prominent. The Taller Marmo designers bank on drama, but that “drama” works best when it’s subtle and sophisticated; at times, it came off as cliché and superficial here. The wool skirt with swirling hole print didn’t also need a feline head pointing downwards in the direction of a woman’s nether region. The striped-sleeved cardigan didn’t need front panels reminding of peacocks. Some of the silhouettes felt clumsy and lacked the designers’ otherwise light touch.
Cleopatra, as interpreted through history and in entertainment, was meant to be the pulse of this collection—and that’s something that, on paper at least, would get many a woman on board. But ultimately, the interpretation of this expanded daywear direction, which was also marred by dreadful styling, proved difficult to digest.