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Orkalia, founded by Orchid Ganji in 2010, is a growing Dubai-based label for “occasion” ready-to-wear. For Fall 2016, Ganji introduced a collection that riffs on surrealist influences. The designer sent out beaded cocktail dresses and relaxed separates amid signature strappy tops and button-down frocks. Unlike many of the somber-hued offerings regional brands have showcased this season, Ganji refreshingly featured a colorful palette injected with dusty pink and cobalt blue hues. Her take on surrealism—cue the pretty tree motifs and phoenix—was feminine and approachable. However, these highlights, which will resonate with regional consumers, weren’t explored thoroughly, and ultimately, the offering didn’t live up to its full potential. As Ganji gains traction, she needs to ensure that more of her pieces call for a place in a woman’s closet, and not just the spattering of look-at-me pieces unveiled for Fall.

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