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Jelena Bin Drai

Serbian-born Jelena Bin Drai generally references Dubai as a starting point for her seasonal collections. But for Fall 2016, the onetime model turned to London—one of the Arab world’s favorite cities—as the base for her storyline, which suggested a stroll through Hyde Park during the chilly winter months.

Bin Drai stretched her eveningwear lineup with daywear and outerwear pieces: in a black, white, and poinsettia red palette, the collection featured lace cocktail dresses, solid flowing silk silhouettes, embellished cape gowns, and mesh overlaid separates. The most chic looks, however, were the pressed-wool belted coat with extra-wide lapels or the fit-and-flared, scalloped-hem blazer. The looks were perhaps more sophisticated than what one might expect from the brand (given that the designer has no formal training), but considering just how many choices consumers have today, Bin Drai currently lacks the original design proposition that will make the region sit up and firmly take notice.

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