Amato couturier Furne One has always been drawn to the dark side. “My grandmother used to tell me stories about witchcraft when I was a young boy, and I loved it,” he confessed to Style.com/Arabia after his show. All these years on and One is still beguiled by the pull of good and evil. For Fall 2016, he explored women’s innate duality—particularly the good girl gone bad.
Following a film screening that set quite a disturbed tone, out stormed wretched haired and red-eyed women clutching voodoo dolls and donning leather corset bodices with long ponytail hair extensions attached and swinging. Strip away the clever accessories, however, and what was left was a slew of beautiful lace dresses for the Immaculata come undone. It wasn’t all tiered lace and bridal veils, though: some dresses spoke to the innate duality within women via plunging, cut-out necklines that recalled bondage; slashed mermaid skirts; and bare shoulders with lace shrugged seductively around the arms and draped at the back.
The couturier officially launched ready-to-wear last season, and the next chapter motioned that it’s a path he’ll continue to flirt with. Milky way expanses were splashed against ballgown skirts while fitted shift dresses were printed with molten lava landscapes. If the couture chapter’s energy was seductive, ready-to-wear felt like cloaked belligerence. But then One quickly plunged again into his lace, and this time, full-on black bodysuits were threaded and stretched like a spider’s web, bra cups were outlined with harnesses, and fabric was dyed a red so raw it looked like blood. It looks like Fall 2016 will be turbulent: keep your friends close and your effigies closer.