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Vera Wang

Who you callin’ a bridal designer? Vera Wang may be the first name you think of when someone says “wedding dress,” but anybody who knows the designer will tell you she’s not a beads-and-bows kind of woman. Backstage she was rocking an old gym tee and leggings with platform boots. And while her new Fall collection wasn’t quite as casual as all that, it was very much made in her image. “It’s reflective of how I live and dress,” she said. Designers are always strongest at doing what they know, and this was a good Wang collection, built mostly from tailoring—evening looks included—and nearly all in the color black, which is shaping up to be the color of Fall ’15.

The first outfit out, a boxy but cropped man’s jacket and long satin skirt with the wide drawstring waistband of boxing shorts, pushed the concept too far—the bared midriff feels a bit overexposed at the moment. Button-down shirts with wool coat sleeves likewise seemed a bit try-hard. But otherwise, Wang made an interesting and often unique case for marrying elements of classic men’s tailoring with more traditionally feminine pieces: Inserting the waistband of a pair of pants—pockets, too—into a long silk velvet dress gave it a cool, slouchy attitude. And a crepe bustier top with lace detailing at the back retained a tomboyish vibe thanks to the oversize trousers it was paired with. The crinkly vinyl outerwear pieces looked particularly good: girly but irreducibly tough. Extra points for the white lug sole black leather boots that accessorized all but the shortest of the looks. We bet a few of her models tried to make off with a pair to beat today’s ice and slush.

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