Apart from attending the runway shows, one of the most exciting aspects of any fashion week is discovering new talent. This Spring 2014 RTW Paris Fashion Week, we came across the new millinery turban label, Donia Allegue. We were taken by the contemporary designs and execution quality, and were curious to explore further. We sat down with Allegue at the Hôtel Le Meurice to discuss how she went from growing up in the Middle East, to working at Christian Dior Couture, and finally to branching out on her own to put a contemporary spin on an ancient traditional headdress—and perhaps even make it more luxurious than ever before.
ON TAKING A NEW IDEA FORWARD
Originally, I wasn’t wearing turbans, but the idea came like a flash. I was visiting an apartment with my mother in Paris and the owner was wearing one. She wasn’t especially elegant or beautiful, but there was something about her—and then I thought, I need to work on this properly. I did some research and realized that I had to do it. It’s a niche product and it’s complex, but the story around it is very beautiful.
ON QUALITY OF EXECUTION AND THE DONIA ALLEGUE SIGNATURE STYLES
Everything is produced in France by milliners who are among the best in the country. The development of the collection was very long because we looked for the best people to work with: the best suppliers from France, Italy, and the UK, who only work for Haute Couture brands. We met many craftsmen before finding the right team—seven different craftsmen, to be exact, before we settled on our technique. People who know how to make turbans are very rare and people who know how to make turbans in this contemporary style—removed from the very classic Versaillais style—are even more rare.
We carry a range of styles, all of which are contemporary, luxurious, and handmade. “Le chic parisien” is composed of timeless pieces, focusing on the quality and continuity of the line. The bridal line carries more romantic and feminine pieces. A “funky” touch is also present, as demonstrated with the crests, or in variations on materials. And we also have a “beach” line—not to be worn for swimming, of course, but rather on holiday, on a yacht, or lounging by the water.
ON ARAB HERITAGE, SHEIKHA MOZAH, AND AFRICA
Obviously, I thought of Arab heritage and Sheikha Mozah when creating this line, but my aim is not for these turbans to fill an ethnic category; this is not an ethnic product for me, it is a matter of style. The turban is linked to Sheikha Mozah and Arabs, but also to Africans—Africa is actually even more of a source of inspiration.
The turban itself is so strong that it doesn’t need to be labeled; it exists entirely on its own.
ON STYLING A TURBAN
A favorite look would be with an Yves Saint Laurent tuxedo, or even with jeans and a t-shirt.
ON TURBAN MILLINERY
“Haute Chapellerie”, or millinery, is a couture form of hat-making and one that we apply to our turbans. All our turbans are made in the tradition of “haute chapellerie”. The lining is fit with a grosgrain band and the brand’s label appears inside on the top right-hand corner for the wearer to view right before donning the turban. At the back of each turban, a single pearl with the initials “DA” are imprinted. Luxury can be found in every detail.
