Bahraini designer Noof Al Shekar’s passion for jewelry has once again translated into a tightly edited collection of handbags and clutches, which seamlessly meld her passion for jewels, geometry, and luxury skins. Style.com/Arabia gives you an exclusive first look at the NS by Noof Fall 2015 collection debuting in Paris today at the rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré luxury boutique Aloha, and speaks with Al Shekar to learn more about the process involved in creating some of the most precious handbags to come out of the Middle East.
CATERINA MINTHE: Describe the ethos behind this new collection, “Bejeweled Dimensions.”
NOOF AL SHEKAR: It is an evolution of this season’s statement jewel clutch. “Bejeweled” is the signature of all my creations, which reflect my infatuation with gems, whereas “Dimensions” refers to my desire to take details to a new extreme. Every face of the new brass structures, leather, and exotic skins reflect this. Influenced by tiaras and ornate palace walls, these pieces feature 22-karat gold and platinum-coated geometrical brass work.
This season sees the release of four new styles: Laya, Jawaher, Reem, and Dalia. They all feature unique natural and antique semi-precious stones and are essentially all handmade, one at a time.
I understand that your pieces can have quite the waiting list; are you still keen to only produce limited quantities?
Yes. Since the release of the first NS by Noof clutch at Jewellery Arabia, I felt that limiting the number of styles made sense. The signature boils down to a more distinctive and definitive range. The point is not to commercialize the designs and dilute them, but rather to try to create pieces of “jewelry” that remain timeless.
Do you follow trends when designing?
My aim is to keep these pieces—similar to those in a jewelry collection—continue a natural evolution and build on a storyline.
This will be the brand’s fifth showing in Paris. How important is it for you to be here?
We started showing in Paris four seasons ago, and since then, so much has happened because of our presence here. It feels like the center of the universe for fashion and luxury goods and almost like the grand finale of fashion month.
Paris represents our official launch date and we love the buzz that surrounds it. Although the pieces don’t really tie down to any one season, it is certainly “healthy” for us to launch with the rest of the world. It has definitely helped our evolution and we have Paris to thank for where we are now.
Speaking of evolution, can you describe your production process?
Regarding the conception of the definitive design, I take a few weeks to gather my thoughts and inspirations in solitude. I switch off and everything else switches on. My best pieces have been conceived this way.
When I put pen to paper, I first define the clutch’s body, then each face is detailed with lines to create a balanced geometry; what comes together is a combination of the study of shapes and an instinctive visualization of the interconnecting lines. Each side of the body has to interconnect to create a three-dimensional flow. The Laya bag, for instance, started off as an idea for a square clutch that was then rediscovered with triangles that fill gaps, which took it to another level.
When all is approved, the sketch is transformed into a 3D computerized model and a customized mold is created to shape each piece. Stones are then selected according to the type of setting, weight, size, beauty of color, and texture in relation to the color of the leather. Then, the color of the metal is allocated. Once the digital prototype is approved, the sampling begins and the thickness of the metalwork and the feasibility of the piece are reassessed. When you consider all the materials that come into play, if one detail is shifted, the whole piece has to be rethought; the delicate balance is what makes each piece so distinctive.
I love seeing my idea come to life and when I see that the final result is more stunning than what I initially imagined or modeled, that is when I know, “This is it—this is the one.”
