Mariam Seddiq, an emerging Australian designer of Afghan descent, caught our eye with her Spring 2015 collection, “En Solitaire,” which features a sports-luxe aesthetic and traditional Afghan embellishments.Style.com/Arabia speaks with Seddiq on everything from life Down Under, to implementing traditional beading in her designs, and the power of social media to connect her Australian-based brand to the Middle East.
ON THE DESIGN TRAJECTORY OF A BORN AND RAISED AUSTRALIAN DESIGNER
I grew up in Sydney, but both my parents are from Afghanistan and they immigrated here about 40 years ago. Growing up, it was more about art than fashion. I only lightly touched on fashion design during the last two years of my high school education. Afterwards, I studied at the Whitehouse Institute of Design in Sydney. I then won a scholarship to complete my Masters in Florence, Italy—due in part to my passion and mix of tailoring and drapery—my work was a mish mash of craziness and my portfolio apparently stood out.
ON THE ARABIC INFLUENCE IN HER DESIGNS
I’m very inspired by Islamic architecture. I don’t know if you’ve seen the mosque in Afghanistan—the Maza-i-sharif ; it’s beautiful and such an inspiration to me. As well, our national costume is hand beaded, but it’s also messy, and colorful—it’s not perfect; and so all of these things have inspired me.
ON HER “MAD HOUSE” PROCESS
To be honest I get distracted so easily. I go from draping on a mannequin, to drawing, to doing more mood boards, to ripping things—it’s a mad house, but it’s an organic process, which I like. I do all my beading on large scale and then I layer that onto a mannequin. I also love draping, it’s really therapeutic for me. In fact, I drape so much that sometimes I can’t even replicate it and then it becomes a one-off.
ON HER THIRD COLLECTION “EN SOLITAIRE”
Here, I implemented traditional Mora Doozi beading, which I embroidered throughout crisp solid whites and nude silk crepe de chine, faille, and rayon fabrics. The Bamiyan paneled skirt and safed T-bar cape were inspired by the architecture of Afghan mosques and showcase strong lines and detailed forms. Meanwhile, the Mazar embellished shorts shimmer with aquatic tones—blues, turquoises, and ocean greens—which are meant to capture the natural landscape of Australia. It’s a really a collection where two worlds meet.
ON LOCAL VERSUS GLOBAL
I feel that I’m getting out there and connecting with people on an international scale—not just Australia.
My advice for any emerging designer is to go with the flow and see who reacts and who doesn’t to your brand. I’ve had a great international response, but I would still advise designers to give 100% attention locally as well. I always tell my husband that I’m doing an “INXS on fashion”—you know how the band went to America, got really famous, and then came back to Australia? That’s what I’m doing.
ON THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA
Having no PR and having never traveled to the Gulf before, it’s amazing how social media has connected me to the Middle East. Just yesterday I received an order from a Qatari lady for the embellished caplet, all thanks to social media.
ON THE IMMENSE SUPPORT OF HER PARENTS
For the first two seasons I was doing everything and my mom was helping me. She’s an old-school Afghan lady, she does everything by hand, she doesn’t know how to use a sewing machine; though I used to get jealous in school when I heard that other students had mums who were professional machinists or pattern makers, but now I appreciate her talent. My parents are a massive help to me—they are my stylists, my PR, my everything.
Mariam Seddiq is available for order on www.mariamseddiq.com.
-As told to Caterina Minthe
