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LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize
Thomas Tait
BACKGROUND: At 21, the Canadian-born, London-based designer became the youngest student to complete an M.A. at Central Saint Martins. After launching his line in 2010, Tait earned a coveted NEWGEN sponsorship from the British Fashion Council and snagged the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize, beating the likes of Mary Katrantzou and Louise Goldin. At the time, he hadn't wholesaled a single piece of clothing.
CUT TO 2014: Tait is now carried in such stores as Jeffrey, Louis Boston, and 10 Corso Como. In May, he was crowned the winner of the inaugural LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize, trumping designers from around the world (1,211 of whom reportedly applied), including Suno, Hood by Air, and Jacquemus. Some of the industry's top players, from Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs to Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo, were on the judging panel. The prize? 300,000 euros.
SIGNATURES: Tait's designs are strict but subtle, thanks to his precise cutting and architectural tailoring techniques.
Photos: Thomas Tait
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Woolmark Prize U.S., menswear
Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of Public School
BACKGROUND: Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne's profile just keeps rising, thanks in no small part to a run of big wins, including 2013's Swarovski Award for emerging menswear designer, last year's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, and this year's CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year victory. The two met while working at Sean John and launched their label years ago, becoming part of the CFDA's inaugural Incubator program. Now they've got menswear and womenswear on offer, as well as a capsule line for J.Crew and a Woolmark Prize under their belt. As the regional winners of the Woolmark Prize, they'll be competing in Beijing this fall for the International Woolmark Prize against labels from Europe, Asia, Australia, and the Middle East.
SIGNATURES: Unfussy, sport-influenced streetwear for men and women.
Photo: BFAnyc.com
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NEWGEN, Spring 2015 catwalk sponsorship
Paula Gerbase of 1205
BACKGROUND: After studying womenswear at Central Saint Martins, Gerbase spent five years as the head designer for Savile Row tailor Kilgour. She launched her own line, 1205, in 2010 and has been showing in London for a few seasons under the NEWGEN sponsorship. 1205 is currently stocked at premium retailers like Dover Street Market, Harvey Nichols, and Net-a-Porter.
SIGNATURES: In keeping with her Savile Row training, Gerbase's men's and women's pieces are timeless, with a focus on quality and cut.
Photos: Courtesy of Paula Gerbase; Getty Images
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NEWGEN, Spring 2015 catwalk sponsorship
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques'Almeida
BACKGROUND: London-based Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida originally met at Citex Fashion School in Portugal and moved to the U.K. to attend Central Saint Martins in 2009. They founded their label in 2011, and made their runway debut for Spring 2014. This year they got on the short-list for the LVMH Prize, along with top-tier talents like Suno and Creatures of the Wind. The brand is stocked at Opening Ceremony, Matches, and 10 Corso Como, among other stores.SIGNATURES: Marques and Almeida have made a name for themselves with great denim pieces.
Photos: Getty Images
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ANDAM Fashion Prize
Iris van Herpen
BACKGROUND: Dutch designer Iris van Herpen lost last year's ANDAM award to AMI's Alexandre Mattiussi, but that didn't stop her from trying again, and this time around she came out on top. With her win, she joins the ranks of previous winners like Julien David and Anthony Vaccarello. The couturier, who has picked up several Dutch design awards over the years, put on her first ready-to-wear show for Fall 2014.SIGNATURES: Highly sculptural designs and 3-D printing, favored by the likes of Lady Gaga and Björk.
Photos: Getty Images
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International Talent Support, Fashion Collection of the Year & Vogue Talents Award for Fashion
Katherine Roberts-Wood
BACKGROUND: International Talent Support has been a launching pad for young designers for 13 years, having helped kick off the careers of Peter Pilotto, Michael van der Ham, and Astrid Andersen, among others. More than 1,200 designers applied this year, but it was Roberts-Wood who took top honors. The 28-year-old Royal College of Art grad is planning to launch her own line with her 15,000 euro prize money.SIGNATURES: As Style.com's Katharine K. Zarrella put it: Roberts-Wood's collection "looked like an armadillo had been crossbred with a rose and a Slinky." And she meant that in the best way possible. "It was mind-boggling how well she controlled her silhouettes despite the countless laser-cut petals of bonded neoprene that made up her wares."
Photos: Courtesy of Katherine Roberts-Wood
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International Talent Support, Diesel Award
Zoe Waters
BACKGROUND: A jury that included Raf Simons, Nicola Formichetti, Susie Bubble, and Marina Abramovic picked out the 27-year-old Royal College of Art grad for this year's Diesel prize. Waters won 20,000 euros and a six-month internship at Diesel.SIGNATURES: Her winning look was an impressive bonded-denim jacket and blue denim shirtdress.
Photos: Courtesy of Zoe Waters
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Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography, Grand Prix du Jury Première Vision
Kenta Matsushige
BACKGROUND: With his Hinabi collection, the Paris-based Japanese designer beat out more than 300 applicants for the grand prize at the 29th Hyères festival this year. He was selected by a jury that was made up of Opening Ceremony's Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, and Chloë Sevigny, among others. Previous winners include Viktor & Rolf and Felipe Oliveira Baptista.SIGNATURES: Streamlined and clean, with great attention to details.
Photos: Courtesy of Kenta Matsushige
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Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography, Prix Chloé (joint winner)
Roshi Porkar
BACKGROUND: Though there is typically only one winner for this category (awarded by Chloé, the official sponsor of the festival), the jury decided Porkar and Liselore Frowijn were both deserving of the prize. The Vienna-based Porkar, who is a former Lanvin employee, recently showed her Spring 2015 collection at Berlin fashion week, where her front-row guests included Haider Ackermann and Tilda Swinton.SIGNATURES: Her Spring 2015 collection focused on faux-fur pieces in structured silhouettes.
Photos: Courtesy of Roshi Porkar
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Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography, Prix Chloé (joint winner)
Liselore Frowijn
BACKGROUND: Frowijn graduated from ArtEZ Institute of the Arts last year and now lives and works in Amsterdam.SIGNATURES: At the intersection of sportswear and luxury, you'll find Frowijn.
Photos: Courtesy of Liselore Frowijn
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Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography, Prix Opening Ceremony
Yulia Yefimtchuck
BACKGROUND: This womenswear designer graduated from the State Institute of Decorative and Applied Arts and Design in 2009, and she currently lives and works in Ukraine. As part of her win, her work will be sold in Opening Ceremony stores worldwide.SIGNATURES: Bold use of colors, with political undertones.
Photos: Courtesy of Yulia Yefimtchuck
