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The Haute Highlights from Couture Week’s Fine Jewelry Collections

chanelofficial / Instagram

chanelofficial / Instagram

The Fall 2016 Haute Couture shows that took place in Paris earlier this month saw jewelry houses and contemporary fine jewelry designers unveil their latest collections. Nature was one of the leading themes at the glittering showcases, where sparkling pieces from Chaumet, Chanel, and Boucheron took the form of wheat-inspired silhouettes, and all eyes were on the colored diamonds and vivid gemstones on show at Place Vendôme. Emeralds mesmerized at Van Cleef & Arpels with an alluring collection that paid homage to the storied jewelry house’s history with the precious stone. Read on as we highlight the glittering jewels that stole the spotlight at Paris Fashion Week.

The La Nature de Chaumet collection recalls the Parisian jewelry house’s deep rooted connection to nature. Four themes make up the offering: wheat, oak, the laurel plant, and the lily flower. Motifs include bouquets of wheat, windswept leaves, winding branches, and clusters of foliage that blossom through jewelry sets, timepieces, and tiaras that feature diamonds and precious stones.

In an ode to emeralds, Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled its Emeraude en Majesté collection, a dazzling line up that pays homage to its long-standing history with the precious gemstone. Standout pieces include the Serrania necklace that’s created around a 26.43-carat, cushion-cut emerald; and the Grand Opus necklace that features three engraved emeralds that total 127.88 carats.

Ears of wheat headline Chanel’s latest fine jewelry collection. Named Les Blés de Chanel, the line up is comprised of 62 pieces and includes a crop of diamonds, yellow sapphires, aquamarines, and pearls. Interlaced wheat motifs are seen swirled around a 25-carat, brilliant-cut, intense yellow diamond on the Fête des Moissons necklace. Meanwhile, the Moisson d’Or brooch showcases a bundle of white diamond ears elegantly secured by a 11.8-carat, marquise-cut, yellow sapphire.

Dior’s fine jewelry creative director, Victoire de Castellane, crafted a collection that pays tribute to one of France’s iconic landmarks, the Château de Versailles. The palace’s decorative interior served as a starting point for the Dior à Versailles haute joaillerie collection, which sees curling Rococo details across earrings, ornamental motifs trace necklaces, and drop tassels resembling chandeliers take pride of place.

During Couture Week, Repossi celebrated its newly revamped flagship on Place Vendôme, which boasts an interior designed by OMA and renowned Dutch architect, Rem Koolhaas. Simultaneously, fine jewelry designer Gaia Repossi unveiled unique limited edition rings, ear cuffs, and earrings set with pink and blue diamonds.

Boucheron staged a glittering, choreographed performance to showcase the new 26 Vendôme collection: Nature Triomphante—a line up designed by creative director Claire Choisne. Models, including Saskia de Brauw, were draped in pieces from the offering that featured wheat, peacock feather, deer, and falcon head motifs. The opulent Lys Radiant necklace features a 20.08-carat, pear-shaped, yellow diamond at the center of a lily flower, and makes for a standout piece.

Contemporary fine jewelry designer Valérie Messika (behind her eponymous label) showcased her latest Calypso collection during Couture Week. Drawing inspiration from the mythological sea nymph, the collection includes a collar necklace featuring 264 pear-cut, white diamonds, along with complementing earrings. The star piece is a statement ear cuff that that’s illuminated by cascading diamonds.

Italian jeweler Giampiero Bodino, behind his namesake brand of fine jewelry, showcased his latest masterpieces at the newly renovated Ritz Hotel in Paris. Known for drawing inspiration from historical Italian references and crafting voluminous, one-off creations made from the finest precious gems, Bodino presented a number of versatile pieces to be worn in more ways than one. Take the Tesori del Mare diamond collar necklace, for instance. It features spiraling blue sapphire and diamond motifs on either side that can be detached and worn as earrings.

De Beers, a storied London-based jewelry house, paid homage to its founding city with a fine jewelry collection that celebrates a number of the British capital’s iconic landmarks—including the London Eye and the Albert Bridge. One of the standout pieces from the collection, the Thames Path diamond necklace, features a centerpiece of three pear-cut diamond drops, and reimagines the flowing waters of the River Thames.


Design director Francesca Amfitheatrof of the New York-based jewelry house Tiffany & Co. divided the Masterpieces Collection into two distinct themes. The first selection, dubbed Tiffany Prism, is a vibrant offering made up of colorful gemstones, such as pink sapphires, green tsavorites, and spessartines that trace orb shaped pendants and rings. The contemporary offering pays tribute to Louis Comfort Tiffany—the brand’s first design director and son of the company’s founder Charles Lewis Tiffany—who was a famed a glassmaker and renowned for his plique-à-jour creations. The second line up showcases a more glamorous offering. Named Tiffany Ribbons, the other half of the Masterpieces Collection draws inspiration from iconic actress Audrey Hepburn, and features fluid, diamond silhouettes. The spotlight piece: an adjustable, collarbone-grazing, diamond necklace beholding seven adjustable rows.

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