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BUYER'S GUIDES February 5, 2015

What Are You Looking Forward To Most This Season?

by

Claire Distenfeld

Owner and buyer, Fivestory, New York "I'm always excited for Dries Van Noten. His runways are so effortlessly put-together, and his models are always curated in a way that makes you say to yourself: 'How the hell am I going to pull that off? But I want to so bad.' He's always an inspiration, not on what to wear that season but how to wear it. "I'm also really looking forward to designers like Raf Simons and J.W. Anderson continuing to use turtlenecks as undergarments or accessories, or even ironically as moments for sparkle and dazzle. And in new trends: Big buttons and big belts are also something I'm looking forward to seeing for Fall!" Photo: Courtesy of Claire Distenfeld

Valentina Galbiati

Womenswear buyer, 10 Corso Como, Milan "I hope to see very simple attire this season—easy, comfortable, and conceptual. I'll also be looking at the shoes; hopefully there will be more flat options in black and royal blue." Photos: Courtesy of Valentina Galbiati

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Vanessa Traina Snow & Morgan Wendelborn

Cofounders, The Line, New York VANESSA: "I love the all-winter collections, particularly because the season lends itself to more dimensional dressing with layers of knit and outerwear, categories we definitely tend toward. This season in particular I am very much looking forward to Protagonist's first fashion week presentation, which I am sure will be full of beautifully cut modern classics that the brand is becoming synonymous with. Christophe Lemaire is another favorite of ours, and I am eager to see what he will put forth now that he is solely focused on his brand." MORGAN: "Fall is when we see the collections take a more introspective turn, and I'm really looking forward to seeing how designers evolve this idea of what has come to be called 'normcore.' I don't like that word much, as I think it misrepresents the sensibility, intent, and thoughtfulness that are at the heart of the concept and lifestyle. It will be refreshing to see what lies beyond that. "And of course, I'm also very excited about my sister Kate's first presentation for her brand, Protagonist." Photos: Courtesy of The Line

Tomoko Ogura

Senior Fashion Director, Barneys New York, New York "I am intrigued by Simon Miller's progress into women's denim. I appreciate the thoughtful approach they take into production, and I expect their exploration of different silhouettes and techniques will continue to impress. Julien Dossena has done an excellent job reanimating the Paco Rabanne brand, and I am excited to see how he builds upon the energetic and captivating Spring collection. Finally, Dries Van Noten is a consistent source of inspiration for me, and I look forward to where his passion takes us next." Photo: Courtesy of Tomoko Ogura

Laure Heriard Dubreuil

CEO and founding partner, The Webster, Miami "I was very impressed by Galliano's first Maison Margiela Artisanal show in London, and I'm also excited for Guillaume Henry's first season at Nina Ricci." Photos: Courtesy of Laure Heriard Dubreuil

Carol Song

Head buyer, Opening Ceremony, New York "We were so excited to see the results from John Galliano's first show for Maison Margiela in London, and cannot wait to see what comes next. It's an ingenious way to channel Galliano's creativity into a house already known for pushing its boundaries. "I'm also excited to see what Guillaume Henry brings to Nina Ricci. Opening Ceremony has loved Henry's work since his days at Carven, and to see a young designer celebrated and recognized for his great work in that way is incredible. That kind of support is what we have always stood for as a retailer that celebrates young and emerging designers." Photo: Courtesy of Carol Song

Maryam Nassirzadeh

Owner and buyer, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, New York "Trends that I am feeling for Fall '15 are '60s mod, clean and tailored, and minimal pieces worn with boots or low heels. Cropped outerwear still feels very fresh. "Fall collections I can't wait to see are Loewe, J.W. Anderson, Vetements, Barbara Casasola, Louis Vuitton, and Céline, as always." Photos: Courtesy of Garance Doré

Olivia Kim

Director of creative projects, Nordstrom, Seattle "I've really been excited about what's happening in London and Tokyo. There's a subversive, kind of unexpected girlishness—but with sophistication—coming from both these hyper-fashionable cities. I love that clash, especially from a few young, emerging designers, including Simone Rocha, who has been on my favorites list for the past few seasons. I love the way she challenges atypical fabrics to make them wearable and fun. Last season she went into unexpected florals, and I'm excited to see what amazing shapes and bobbles come down the runway for Fall '15. Marques'Almeida is also on the short list. It's been exciting to watch them grow their collections to embrace denim, silks, shoes, and accessories. Undercover from Jun Takahashi was perfection last season, very strange and cute. I'm also a die-hard fan for Junya Watanabe. Although not emerging, he continues to blow my mind time and time again. There's an unmatched creativity there and someone who truly is dancing to his own polka." Photo: Courtesy of Olivia Kim

Eva Galambos

Owner and buyer, Parlour X, Paddington, Australia "I particularly love the January showings as these Pre-Winter Northern Hemisphere collections will arrive in-store in the heart of our Australian winter. I'm very excited to visit the showrooms of Chloé, Stella McCartney, Céline, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Isabel Marant, and Valentino. In recent seasons these collections have had a habit of taking my breath away as I touch and feel the fabric textures and see the designs up close. From Valentino's macramé to Saint Laurent's tapestry, I am delighted to see texture become a dominant trademark of luxury fashion right now, separating the high-end collections from the rest." Photo: Courtesy of Eva Galambos

Tena Strok

Managing director and buyer, Celestine Eleven, London "Fashion is in such an exciting place right now. Each season it seems we're being brought closer and closer to a new model of post-trend-led modernity. We're seeing fewer trends and more things we would actually like to wear. Surely this is the whole point of fashion? For years I feel consumers were lost in a sphere of fantasy, but as market demand changes, so does industry—it has no other choice. And so now we are seeing this beautiful breakthrough of real wearability, shot through with both ingenuity and concept, yet essentially created for the customer. This is exciting for buyers. "This season we are looking forward to seeing what is next in Faustine Steinmetz's conversation on handwoven and embroidered fabric—it's nice to see more designers demonstrating real skill. London is reclaiming its former authority in authentic, visionary talent, and A/W '15 should exemplify how far we've come in recent seasons." Photos: Courtesy of Tena Strok

Jo Sindle

Cofounder, The Goodhood Store, London "I'm really looking forward to seeing the new collections from both Aries and Marc by Marc Jacobs. They both have a street sensibility executed at an exceptional level, which is right up there with what we love." Photos: Courtesy of Jo Sindle

Rebecca Osei-Baidoo

Womenswear buyer, Browns, London "Each season is a surprise, and we always ask ourselves a million questions before stepping into the showrooms: Will it be androgynous? Will there be color? What's the new piece every customer is going to want? How are we going to interpret it in a Browns way? For me personally, I really want to see if women will be wearing very high heels again. We've had a few seasons now where shoes have become more comfortable and easier to wear and the designer trainer really took off. I'm wondering if it's time for a shift, and if the rumors are true about the '70s making a comeback, we certainly will need platforms for the flares we'll all be wearing." Photo: Courtesy of Rebecca Osei-Baidoo

Kai Avent-deLeon

Owner and buyer, Sincerely, Tommy, Brooklyn, New York "I'm most looking forward to Georgia Alice, an Australian label. They're bringing back an off-the-shoulder silhouette from the '60s and '70s that I love so much, but doing it in a more modern way. I adore their use of silk taffeta and the stiff structure of these tops. I also see a lot of 'high-water' bell-bottoms. It's refreshing to see something other than straight-leg trousers and skinny jeans." Photo: Courtesy of Kai Avent-deLeon

Kristen Lee Cole

Creative director and head buyer, TenOverSix, Los Angeles "I'm always excited to see all of our designers. We have a very select, little group of designers whom I adore, mostly because they are so independent and churn out such thoughtful, smart, unfussy design. We always look for cool, arty, statement but easy pieces. Last Fall and Resort saw so many crazy, great coats, so we'll definitely be looking for more this season. Of our newer lines, I can't wait to see what Nancy Stella Soto and Caron Callahan will do. Rachel Comey blows me away every single season with her cool prints and easy silhouettes. Nomia is killing it; we'll likely want every piece. Zero + Maria Cornejo is a personal favorite. As far as shoes go, I'll be looking even more to Martiniano—a recent addition—for soft, supple low heels and flats. I live in mine and think girls are getting into this. I never know which shows we'll make it to, since our buying schedule is so jam-packed, but I hope to squeeze in a few for styling inspiration and fun. Oh, and I think we have to shop MM6 after just seeing the unreal Maison Margiela show by Galliano!" Photo: Courtesy of Kristen Lee Cole

Natalie Kingham

Buying director, Matches Fashion, London "I always look forward to the Marc Jacobs show; it's an exciting finale to New York fashion week. Another show that never disappoints is Valentino. Each season there is a lot of anticipation around the show—their collections are just incredibly desirable. Marco de Vincenzo, a new brand to Matches Fashion last season, is going from strength to strength, and I can't wait to see what he does next. Another brand that is definitely having a moment is Marques'Almeida. For Spring/Summer we loved their soft twill, raw-edge denim paired with rainbow-bright deconstructed silk separates and dresses. It will be interesting to see how they will continue to develop their signature denim for Autumn/Winter. Thomas Tait is also one to watch. I loved his Spring/Summer collection and believe he is a star in the making. His A/W show is eagerly anticipated. "Trend-wise, I am delighted to see that the '70s trend we saw this Spring is continuing through to next season, and I'm excited to see how it develops—it can be a really lovely trend for winter, and I'm expecting lots of velvet, tweed, tan leather, saddlebags, and paisley." Photo: Courtesy of Natalie Kingham

Anaïs Lafarge

Cofounder and buyer, The Broken Arm, Paris "Vetements is one of the most creative and intelligent brands we've seen the last few seasons, and we loved their first show in Paris for Spring '15. We also can't wait to see the work of the young and talented J.W. Anderson at Spanish house Loewe. And as big fans of Raf Simons, we are dying to discover his new collection at Dior, which is always the perfect symbiosis of his influences and energy with the codes of the luxury house. Finally, we are looking forward to see what Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski will propose at Hermès." Photo: Courtesy of Anaïs Lafarge

Sarah Easley

Cofounder, Kirna Zabête, New York "For New York, we're really looking forward to see what Altuzarra shows. We adored the animal prints and sleek dresses he did for Pre-Fall and are hoping for an elaboration on that story. In Paris, the Valentino show is always an 'I love my job' moment. And finally, Paris street fashion is absolutely sublime. Especially in the Tuileries! The week in Paris really sets the tone for the season." Photos: Courtesy of Sarah Easley

Danielle Barker

Junior buyer, The Corner Shop and Belinda, Sydney "For denim, I'm really looking forward to seeing Alexander Wang's newly launched denim range in the flesh. Just from what I've seen so far, he seems to have nailed what girls want right now from their jeans. Cool washes and cuts, plus the fact that he has developed his own 1 percent stretch, and all supported by that cool campaign shot by Steven Klein, it should make for interesting viewing!" Photos: Courtesy of Danielle Barker

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The women’s Fall ’15 season is upon us. We’ve discussed the game of designer musical chairs, shopped Spring runway trends, dissected the questions on fashionable minds, and hopefully sipped enough green juice to prevent the inevitable onset of “fashion week flu.”

As the industry turns its attention toward the first stop in the monthlong show schedule (New York), we’ve taken the opportunity to speak with some of the world’s top buyers to discover what they’re excited to see this season. After all, they’re the real power players when it comes to the must-have coat you’ll be salivating over in stores come August.

—Tara Lamont-Djite, Style.com

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