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Power Pouts
Seen At: Carolina Herrera, Topshop Unique, Burberry Prorsum, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana, MissoniThe Look: Lipstick in varying hues made a triumphant return for Spring ’15, but with a more rebellious spirit. Blurred edges replaced strict liner at Missoni and Topshop Unique, and wine-stained lips were fingerprinted with matte lipstick at Dolce & Gabbana. “A stamped-on red mouth that’s perfect and hard is slightly old-fashioned,” said makeup pro Lucia Pieroni, who diffused the outline of lips with a cotton swab at Missoni. “You don’t know where the line starts and stops, so it makes lips look fuller.”
From top: MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Relentlessly Red; maccosmetics.com. Dolce & Gabbana Dolce Matte Lipstick in Dolce Desire; available in March at saks.com. Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in Impassionedesteelauder.com. Dolce & Gabbana Classic Cream Lipstick in Amethyst; saks.com. Maybelline New York Color Sensational Creamy Mattes in Faint for Fuchsia; maybelline.com. Burberry Lip Cover in Ruby; us.burberry.com.
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Bling Ring
Seen At: Thakoon, Badgley Mischka, Rodarte, Prada, Miu MiuThe Look: Cara Delevingne’s arches weren’t the only brows that got people talking (though the fact that they were bleached at Givenchy turned a few heads). “Hallucinogenic” lines appeared above arches at Prada; “bad girl” brows were drawn on at Miu Miu; pastels replaced natural hair hues at Badgley Mischka; and clear gloss lent a post-swim sheen at Thakoon. Rodarte took the prize, though, for the painless piercings created by maquillage master James Kaliardos.
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Liner Notes
Seen At: Fendi, DiorThe Look: Peter Philips can produce makeup magic with just about anything. (Sequins, neoprene, jumbo-size glitter, metallic thread, gold leaf, and lace are in his bag of tricks.) For Spring ’15, he took eyeliner to the next level by snipping off strips of cornflower-blue leather from hair-ties at Fendi and adhering them above models’ lashes. At Dior, where Philips is now the creative and image director for beauty, he developed laser-cut satin eyeliner stickers in pistachio, butter yellow, rose, and peach. Bonus: “They’re smudge-proof,” he said.
Dior Pastel Eyes Adhesive Eyeliner; available in January at dior.com.
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Natural Wonders
Seen At: Versus Versace, Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Mary Katrantzou, Christopher Kane, Gucci, Dries Van Noten, Dior, Isabel Marant, Chloé, Giambattista Valli, ChanelThe Look: For Spring, looking like you tried at all is officially out. “It’s not about something big or explosive right now,” said mane master Guido Palau. “It’s the little thing you have to find—shine, texture, character. That’s what designers are responding to at the moment.” For hair, that meant finger-combed waves and ponytails scraped back sans brushes. Makeup was equally unfussy, with François Nars forgoing product altogether at Marc Jacobs. (Off the catwalk, concealer and a hint of highlighter never hurt.) “You look younger the less you do on your face,” noted Pat McGrath.
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Hit the Spot
Seen At: Adam Selman, Oscar de la Renta, Preen by Thornton BregazziThe Look: Freckles—yes, freckles—were spotted on several runways. “It’s a celebration of reality,” said makeup artist Val Garland of the faces she dotted with mahogany and taupe colors at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. If you don’t have a lifetime of summer spots to display, face painter Gucci Westman suggests tapping a freshly sharpened eyeliner pencil across the bridge of your nose and softening speckles with fingertips. Or try Topshop’s Freckle Pencil, which swirls two shades of brown for a realistic effect.
Topshop Freckle Pencil in Forever Young; topshop.com.
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Getting Buzzed
Kanye West’s chevron buzz cut appeared all over Paris this season, but he wasn’t the only fashion fixture with a scalp-grazing ’do. Forty-year-old Amber Valletta showed she’s still got an edge on the competition, sporting a freshly shorn fade at Lanvin. According to the model, it’s a real time-saver backstage: “I didn’t even sit in the chair,” she said. “Guido [Palau] came up, put some stuff in my hair, and that was it.”
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Designer Add-Ons
Seen At: Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Céline, ValentinoThe Look: The laid-back styles designers craved were dressed up with luxe hair accessories. A leather “crocodile tail” was attached to ponytails at Fendi, metallic combs adorned buns at Bottega Veneta and Lanvin, and roses lent some Spanish flair to knots at Dolce & Gabbana. Alexander Wang accented blow-outs with beaded Croakies straps at Balenciaga, and Phoebe Philo transformed the hardware seen on Céline’s handbags into bold barrettes. Best in show: the gilded seashell tiara at Valentino.
Clockwise from top: Valentino headband; available at select Valentino boutiques. Céline barrette; available in February at Neiman Marcus. Bottega Veneta comb; for more information, visit bottegaveneta.com.
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Back to Black
Seen At: Diane von Furstenberg, Narciso Rodriguez, Marchesa, Tom Ford, Prada, Emilio Pucci, Anthony Vaccarello, Céline, Sonia Rykiel, Saint Laurent, Chanel, Louis VuittonThe Look: Basic black liner and cat-eyes are perennials backstage, but makeup artists came up with new ways to keep them interesting this season. Dick Page devised a scratchy “chevron” at Narciso Rodriguez and a “blunt” wing along the lower lashes at Céline. Tom Pecheux mimicked morning-after makeup with glitter for Anthony Vaccarello, while McGrath made a case for graphic shapes drawn on with liquid liner at Louis Vuitton. The soot-free smoky eye trick everyone should try: Rim eyes with ebony- and coffee-colored pencils, then blend out with a tapered brush like McGrath did at DVF.
From top: Revlon ColorStay SkinnyLiquid Liner in Black Out; revlon.com. MAC Cosmetics Glitter in 3D Black; maccosmetics.com. Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Mirifique; chanel.com. Maybelline New York Master Kajal in Onyx Rush; maybelline.com. Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Caviar; shiseido.com.
