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Build-a-Black-Liner Workshop: Three Ways to Try This Runway Trend

how-to-apply-black-liner

Photo: Simon Cave

The Floating Wing

From classic feline flicks to bold strokes of black, we saw countless variations of graphic eye statements on the Fall ’15 runways. To re-create these looks, only one product is required and it’s likely already sitting in your makeup bag: liner. “Personally, I like gel liner because you can choose the brush you want to use with it,” said face painter Vincent Oquendo, who created all three of these eyes on model Riley Montana. “With a liquid, you’re limited to the felt tip or brush applicator that the product comes with, which even I as a makeup artist of 13 years struggle with sometimes.” He suggests MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack or Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner. To craft the floating shapes seen in the photo above, the pro suggests drawing a dot where you want the wing to end and using a skinny brush to connect a line from the outer corner of your eye to this central point. Form a triangle by drawing another line from the outer point back to the inner corner, then fill in the shape. For more definition, smudge a brown pencil (like MAC’s Eye Pencil in Coffee) along the lashes and perfect the line using a cotton bud and oil-free makeup remover.

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Photo: Simon Cave

The Couture Crease

Building upon the first look and using the same gel formula, Oquendo adds a floating strip of liner along the socket, reminiscent of the eye seen at Versace Atelier’s Spring 2015 Couture show. “Many people are intimidated by floating liner, but it’s relatively simple because you already have a guide—you just follow your crease,” he said. “If you have hooded eyes, draw your line just slightly above the crease.” A short brushstroke of black extended from the middle of the eye just past the outer corner lends the look a “punk” sensibility.

how-to-apply-black-liner-3

Photo: Simon Cave

The Evening Addition

Adding onto the double liner in the last shot, Oquendo thickens the line in the crease and extends it toward the tear duct. He also continues the lower line into the inner corner. The finishing touch is a strip of silver pigment applied with a damp brush along the top lashes. (Try Make Up For Ever Star Powder in Silver.) “It brightens an otherwise very dark eye,” explained the pro. “And catches the light, which is great for any sort of event.”

Photographer: Simon Cave

Makeup artist: Vincent Oquendo

Hairstylist: Jennifer Yepez

Manicurist: Casey Herman

Model: Riley Montana

—Amber Kallor, Style.com

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