The number one #beautyeditorproblem during NYFW: Trekking through the snow for a no-makeup makeup look. Dragging your body out of bed after meeting a late-night deadline only to discover that moisturizer and maybe some strategic highlighter were the key products employed is too often a heartbreaking reality. A show you can always expect a look: Rodarte. And today was no exception. Makeup artist James Kaliardos attached tiny Swarovski sparkles to silver string and glued them to the center of models’ lower lash lines (a concept we saw earlier in the week at Ohne Titel, but with plum-colored caviar beads). “I really wanted to do crystals, but I didn’t want [the models] to look like a stripper,” Kaliardos said. “This makes the eye [appear] bigger and is another way of activating an area of the face that is typically dark.” The pro’s dexterous assistant—skilled in French furniture polish, gilding, and lacquer work before becoming a face painter—crafted the sparkle-studded strips. “It took him 12 months to do so,” joked Kaliardos of the painstaking detail work, though he said a quick beauty hack is to simply adhere two or three stones with lash glue. He pared back the rest of the face, skimming the waterline with NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Rue Bonaparte and coating the top fringe with the brand’s forthcoming Audacious Mascara. “[Laura and Kate Mulleavy] love magical, ethereal beauty and they aren’t afraid of beauty or afraid to take a chance with it,” he said of the designers’ fearless approach backstage. “And even with this, which is a full face of makeup with crystals, it still looks fresh. A lot of people are just afraid to do anything. I’ve had tests this week where people were like, ‘I don’t know, should we do mascara?’ And that’s all that’s on the face. Nobody’s going to look too radical with a little bit of makeup on.” As an editor whose alarm clock went off quite early this morning, I couldn’t agree more. Thanks for making that brutal morning commute worth it, Rodarte.
—Amber Kallor, Style.com